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Just one pass through.

I have exact same chiller. Never had a plate chiller to compare it to, but with my water at 60 deg, chilled 10G wort to 64 in just under 9 minutes. Seems to work very good in my opinion.

I have never mixed more then a quart of sanitizer at a time. It only needs to get surface wet for a minute to sanitize. I see so many people fill a 5 gallon carboy full of sanitizer and let it sit thinking it needs to be submerged, then they dump it all out, what a waste. It only takes 1.5ml...

I use these Not sure where in California you are but I get these for free from a local dairy farmer, they come with sanitizer in them. They are looking for people to take them so they dont have to pay to get rid of them.

You will need that part but it is only 1/2" NPT (they do not have it in 3/4") so you will also need a bushing to fit the 3/4" female threads (4429K414). Your plug for disconnect will screw into bushing then this will screw into your 3/4" female pipe threads on chiller.

Below is a very good article about iodine as a no rinse sanitizer. http://www.bayareamashers.org/content/maindocs/iodophor.htm

Wow you got me beat, my bicarb is 382. Not much you can do with this water straight out of the tap is their, I have to cut it with RO water for everything I brew.

My last Weissbier I made I used 3.5% acid malt in recipe. I used less gypsum & calcium chloride and let the malt bring my mash down to proper ph. I just kegged it Tuesday so I have not sampled it yet to see how it compares.

That is very close to what I do mine at. These are the only differences. Ca 67 Na 13 Cl 75 SO4 91 RA -40 Probably nothing you would even notice.

I think if you factor in yeast viability and other unknown factors I dont think you are overpitching by much, especially for a lager. Overpitching will limit esters and fusel alcohols which is probably good for a lager. I think most people under pitch rather then pitch too much, plus I think it...

According to Wyeast calculator a .5L starter stepped up to a 2L starter on stir plate will give you 453 billion or 1L to 1L gives you 397 billion.

OK. I think I will let it cool down to 68, let it sit their for a while for yeast to clean up, then drop down to lager temps. Thanks

I pitched at 63 and let it rise naturally; I am currently at about 60 hours. At 52 hours it started to go over 82 deg. so fermentation freezer kicked in to hold temp. My question is it is starting to drop temp because the most active part of fermentation is done, should I hold the 82 deg temp...

I used the same nut & o-ring from bargainfittings, but did not use the original gasket on the outside. Teflon tape threads and tighten down nut nice and tight, no leaks.

The only thing I noticed was that it was just a little slower to respond when you changed temperature. Example if you changed the setpoint 20 degrees higher, before it would quickly go to 100% output where now it slowly ramps up to 100% output, but nothing that drastic.

Are you using this in HLT, BK, or both? I am still fairly new to my pid and use it for both HLT & BK. If you are using it just your your HLT the default values after doing an auto-tune seemed to work fine. If you are using it in a BK I changed my cycle rate "t" to 1. The rate was at two...

Yes you are correct, I was thinking refractometer not a brix hydrometer.

These numbers do not take into account the alcohol correction to properly figure your FG. This is fine for figuring your OG. I come up with 1.007 as your FG. This is using Beersmith and the online calculater from onebeer as posted above. Also 1.040=10 brix.

Normally on a 4 prong dryer plug your 2 straight plugs are hot, L shaped plug neutral, and round plug ground. Now you just have to check for continuity between the prongs and the colored wires to determine which prong is what colored wire.

The insulation of a neutral wire is coloured blue in EU & UK. But I would still use a meter to check.