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Yep, it increases the molarity and thus the damage it can do. At the recommended dilution, while low pH it's also very low molarity and thus you could drink it just fine, like phosphoric acid in soda. I wouldn't risk it at 1 oz StarSan in 32 oz water.

Styles where hop flavor and aroma aren't supposed to be prevalent FWH probably shouldn't be used. Otherwise, go for it. Hell, unless you're entering a competition, give it a try and see how it is.

There you go. Oxyclean, sanitizer, then be extra safe and bake 'em at 350 for 1 hour. Cover the tops with foil, fill the oven, turn it on. Once pre-heated, set for 1 hour, then kill the oven and let the bottles cool. Your bottles are now sterile and will keep as long as the foil is on.

Good chance you'll lose a lot of aroma and flavor of these during primary. So, be prepared at bottling or kegging to add a little more to taste. I used a spice mix of equal parts cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, and allspice. This is what I added at bottling to taste. I believe I did 1 tbsp in...

Today ended up being a barleywine. I racked it onto a yeast cake from my house IPA that I just kegged. Trippel will be tomorrow or Tuesday as the starter has done very nicely over the last few days.

I just dump it in to the fermenter if I don't use a nylon bag. I get the 5 gallon paint strainer bags from the hardware store and use those when I have large hop additions. Before I got my valve and dip tube on the boil kettle, I dumped through a colander and nylon bag. I guess I could just use...

Forgot to answer about the head space. Yeah, it's fine. CO2 production fills the head space up pretty quick and allows no oxidation and the beer finishes just fine.

I don't bother with secondary unless I'm doing a fruit beer or something else that needs conditioning. Certain styles I'll do a secondary too, like imperial stouts and barleywines cause they need a little longer fermentation time and I play it safe by not doing a long term primary. I keg, so...

Nah, it'll be fine since it dries quickly. Just don't chug the spray bottle.

Some general things: Extract -- you don't know exactly how the maltster produced it, so it could be more or less fermentable than a recipe expects Grains -- Carapils, Carafoam, Carahell, and wheat are the most common ways to add body and mouthfeel to brews Sugars -- adding Lactose or...

StarSan is supposed to be flavorless and I've never gotten anything from it, but I also mix it to the right concentration. If his brews don't taste off to you, then you're fine. I'd tell him he's wasting his money by mixing 1 ounce to 32 ounces water. With StarSan, you can take a 5 gallon...

I use buckets that are 6.5 or 7 gallons. The same type that come in homebrewing kits. I have friends who use 6.5 gallon carboys for primary. You're really pushing it with a 5 gallon carboy. You can get about 5.25 gallons or so in there, but you're right up on the neck and will get lots of blow...

1. Yeah, the more yeast you need the more oxygen is needed. 2. You could use the ones from the fish store, but they disintegrate easily. My brother tried them and they kinda sucked. 3. Definitely rigid tubing. I took a racking cane and put my stone on the bottom and connected the air line...

Looks fine to me. Nothing I see in there looks bad. Sometimes the krausen won't fully drop and that just looks foamy and nothing to worry about.

The manufacturers say either is fine. For rehydrating, Fermentis says to use 2x the weight of water to the amount of yeast, stir and let go 15-30 min. For sprinkling on the wort, they say to sprinkle over the surface of the wort slowly to prevent clumps. Let sit for a few minutes and then...

It's a dry yeast, so there's nothing to worry about there unless you stored it at 90 degrees. I just did a lager with that yeast, and it took two days with 2 packs to show activity. Since it's my first lager, I don't have the experience to know if lagers take a little longer to get going...

Gordon Strong has a lot about this in his new book. The perceived bitterness is that of a 20 minute addition, according to the book. So, that's what I put in for Beer Smith. I now do FWH for all my IPA and load up on end additions (20 min or less) and my hop flavor and aroma is huge. The...

I buy from Keg Connection. Ball locks are $60, fully reconditioned and come with a set of replacement gaskets. Pin locks are $35 right now. $8 flat shipping. Definitely do not pay $50 if you have to clean and recondition. I'd start with $30 to $35 offer and pay no more than $40.

I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JXYQ4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 And got an 8 gallon pot for my boils. Both together were under $100 and both are BC. If you have the money to spare, do yourself a favor and get a Blichmann burner. They take the super BC one, clean it up and...

You can get a lot of vanilla and oak by using oak chips. Soaking in bourbon will add that much more flavor. I did a bourbon barrel stout where I soaked 4 oz of French medium toasted oak chips in 1 pint of Jim Beam. I got a ton of vanilla, but I think it would have done much better in an...