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You are using way too much crystal malt - you are at 27% of total grain bill. Cut it down to .5lb of crystal 20 and maybe switch the caramucich to munich. I agree on ditching the 30 minute addition. Keep one at 60, then everything else in the last 20 minutes of the boil. You list two 0...

I actually just kegged it last night. This was the second batch I've made, great recipe.

this is what I use for an IPA - OG around 1.068 for a 5.5 Gbatch @ 80% efficiency 10 lb two row pale 2 lb vienna .5 carapils .5 crystal I play with the crystal to get different beers. I might use anything from 10L to 60L or a mix of light and darker (up to 120 or special b). I know a lot of...

that looks perfectly normal. Hop oils on the surface of the beer are trapping CO2.

For a 5 gallon batch, his recipe should get an OG around 1.078. 2oz of 13% magnum gives just shy of 100 IBUs the later addition cascades won't add a whole lot of bitterness, but overall you're still gonna be around 110+ IBUs. This would be too bitter for my tastes, but it might be good for...

Yeah, some more detailed info would help. Magnum is primarily only used for bittering additions (60 minutes) 2 oz will give you a very bitter beer. That's ok if that's what you are going for...

I would do 152.

I used a dremel with a cutting bit. I would make a jig to help guide - I learned the hard way that it is very difficult to cut a straight line. You could also probably use a router or a jigsaw.

Most people will want to use a clean, high AA hop for bittering. You can save some money buy using less and really let those aroma and flavor hops shine. Galena and Magnum seem to be popular choices. For the aroma and flavor, we first need to know if you are looking for an English or American...

No need to be upset, you actually were smiled upon by the beer gods. 65 will be much better for your beer than 70. passedpawn is right on that fermentation temp will be higher than ambient, but I have seen it said by several people that it could be even 6-10 degrees higher. Regardless of...

specialty grains - almost all are 1.90/lb 2 row I only buy in bulk - $33 for 50 lbs = $.66/lb I also buy golden promise and vienna are $1/lb in bulk Hops are like 3-4 dollars an ounce. Haven't bought from them in a few years.

12' of 3/16 will not give you foam problems because of length, so it must have been something else. If you're sure the beer isn't overcarbed, then warm tubing/shanks could cause some foam.

I turned down my keezer from 44 to 40 a couple of weeks ago....don't like it. I will going back up as soon as I remember to reset it. I hated that I had to wait 20 minutes for my beers to taste their best... the glass was empty by then.

What size tubing are you using?

1.) keep the pipeline full! It sucks to run out of beer - I now have 10 kegs and 3 primaries, so that should help (as long as I get off my lazy arse and brew 2 or 3 batches a month.) 2.) make my first lager - I just got another Love temp controller in the mail today and need to rewire my...

+1... best price around!

buy perlicks...seriously. They are worth every penny. however, if you don't want to spend money, some people have luck cleaning them after each use. There was someone who posted about spraying starsan up the faucet at the end of each night and was able to avoid sticking problems.

generally you will get more flavor from additions around 20 minutes left in the boil. You will get more aroma from hops added in the last 10 minutes. It would be helpful to know what your recipe calls for to make modifications. If you want to just add an extra ounce at 15 minutes and 5...

I would move the 30 minute addition, I don't think you get much flavor from that. For that big hop flavor and aroma you really need to load up at 20 minutes and less. I love cascades, but I feel that they are a little less intense than some of the other american citrusy hops (amarillo...

Yeah, you will be fine with US-05. just for another point of reference, I pitched 2 packs on a 1.116 Barleywine and it went down to 1.021.