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You need to work backwards. First figure out how much you want to end up with int the fermenter. I go for 5.5 gallon. Then add your kettle losses, boil off loss, and grain absorption loss. Only way to do this is to take accurate measurements as you brew and "dial in" your system...

I tried BS, and found that I didn't like it. Been using the paid version of Brewers Friend for a couple years now. IMO BF is easier to use and gets the job done for me.

I don't have the Anvil, but I like to clean any new SS gear with TSP, then PBW. Gets any manufacturing oils off.

No, you want to control the temp, especially during the stages of peak fermentation. What were your settings on the inkbird, mainly the cold differential? Shouldn't have risen a degree or two more than 64 if you have it set up right. Sounds like you have the Cd set closer to 10.

What are you using to control the freezer temp? Something is not right. No way the freezer could run all night and the beer be at 74.

Yes, 3/16" was what I had intended to say.

I use a 1/4" shank with 3/16" tubing. I recommend getting good draft lines. Vinyl tubing can give off flavors. I really like this stuff. https://www.morebeer.com/products/ultra-barrier-antimicrobial-pvc-free-tubing-316.html Yeah, it costs more, but IMO well worth it. Edited tubing size to 3/16"

Chest freezer with Inkbird.

Quit taking gravity readings so soon. Keep the fermenter sealed up and let the yeast work. Have you read "How to Brew" by Palmer yet? If not, I suggest you do.

I use to be in this school of thought till I realized that i couldn't make a dark beer. The water I was using made a good IPA, but dark brews never came out right. Learned a little about water chemistry, started building my own water, and my beers have improved a lot. Not all water is the...

I agree with you. Efficiency is just a calculation of potential gravity vs. attained gravity. If you are taking gravity readings, then you are checking efficiency indirectly. If you gave two people a grain bill and one got 95% and another got 65%, you would have two totally different beers...

If that works for you, great. I'd personally consider a 5% beer and a 7% beer two totally different beers. For those of us that use a program to formulate our brews, an accurate efficiency number is necessary. I just got done brewing, and I ended up with the exact OG as predicted, which will...

2149 + 5 gal Chinook IPA = 2154

Then how do you formulate a recipe for a brew? Brewing with the exact same ingredients on a system that gets 62% vs 80% are going to result in two different beers. I'm not one to get hung up on how high of an efficiency, rather how consistent can your system be? I know my system gets me 75%...

Sounds like a lot of work. But in theory, the top section wouldn't need that much cool air to keep fermentation temps. Unless floor space is a premium, two separate units would be the more practical choice. Would probably cost more to build than to just buy another freezer.

What are you doing that you are getting such low efficiency? Who crushes your grain, you or your supplier? Something has to be drastically wrong to consistently be getting 62%. What kind of water are you using?

How would you get into the bottom freezer section?

Brew what you like. If others don't like it, they don't have to drink it. I'd personally pass on most of the above suggestions, as I like my hops.

I'm still trying to figure out how 5 gallons lasts 3-4 months with friends helping? :confused:

An IPA with the Pale, Munich, and even some Vienna. Centennial and/or cascade for the hops.