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I've gotten vegetal, grassy tastes from dry hopping cold in keg. Like wet grass.

I bought 4 from adventure in homebrewing about a year and a half ago. Bought 4 more 3 months ago. Never had a problem with post. All were the same size

Looks like the IBU's are very high , so it actually might not matter.

Anyone drop the cara-pils in this recipe. Seems like a lot of crystal (for my tastes anyway) already. I usually like my IPAs no higher than 1lb of crystal.

This beer is to big to not use a starter. You would prob need closer to 3 or 4 vials without a starter. It would be cheaper to just use 2 pks of dry yeast. Otherwise make a proper starter.

Your basically talking about hop bursting. Which is no traditional 60min addition or very little. There's a lot of great info about it and ppl making great beers with this technique. FWIW I brew an all citra pale ale with late hop additions. 1oz @15 1oz@10 .5oz@5 .5oz@1 1.5 @...

Use a pair of needle nose pliers. Once you pop one out and see how they sit in the post you'll be popping them out in 2 sec from there on out.

I'd say get your own freezer just for hops. Any one of those hops will make a great ipa. It won't be a two hearted clone. But will make a great beer regardless.

The threads will be the same. Don't tap tower shanks have elbow flares on the ends. Maybe you can cut them off. Not sure about that part.

Drinking this beer right now and love the simcoe version. Second time brewing it. How did you like the other hop versions you brewed compared to the simcoe?

I dry hop in the primary after crashing with gelatin. The beer is very clear without any yeast to strip aroma. To me it's not worth the extra transfer or possible oxidation. Unless you purge your secondary of co2. Whether a yeast cake sucks up aroma from dry hopping I'm not sure. I've...

I did turn my pressure down so it wouldn't over carbonate. My pour is about 10 sec for a pint. I think I'll just mess with the angle of the glass to get a good head.

It's my first kegged beer. My second is carbing up still. I'll have to see how that one pours in a week or so. I open the valve fully and pour down the side until it gets half full then finish the pour up rite. It's a simple grain bill for a pale ale.60% pilsner 30% marris otter 14oz...

I know there's a lot of threads with ppl having too short of lines and foaming. I'm having the opposite problem. I started off with 12' lines and my kegs are in a fridge. The height of the tap to the center of the kegs is very little. I can't seem to get a good head on my beer. ( I know...

I think you fermented it to high. 21c I think is 70f. Your actual ferm temp was prob 75-78. Danstars website says ferments clean up to 78f Max temp ( too high in my opinion. I Would never ferment that high) Optimum temp is 63- 72.

I think it matters on how long you secondary whether you should re-yeast or not. I secondary for 4 months at basement temps of 55-60. I did re-yeast. It still took 3 months to carbonate. If you just secondary shorter before bottling. Re-yeasting shouldn't be necessary.

I did take the dry hops out and let it sit for a week in the kegerator. The grassiness did fade to where it's drinkable but it's still their in the flavor not so much the aroma. I'm going to throw 2 oz of centennial in at room temp for a few days to try and cover it up a bit.

Depends on how cold the beer is when crashing. If it's in the 30's. 48 hrs is usually the minimum I would crash before bottling. I usually go 3-7 days.

Yep calcium sulfate. Sorry for the confusion.

Calcium chloride (gypsum) to up the sulfates for a pale ale and ipa. Calcium chloride for maltier styles. You can match your sulfate and chloride levels to bru n waters existing water profiles. It will tell you how many grams u need to bit your levels also. Some ppl like their sulfate levels...