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That is a good question I have been pondering. I am replacing an arduino based controller that I had coded before and this is how I set it up. The thought is you want to purge warm coolant and air from the system before opening the valves to the coils. The liquid in the reservoir is already...

Thanks for the offer. I am comfortable writing the scripts, I just need to understand a little bit about what is under the hood on the elements. I have glycol reservoir with a pump and chiller that feeds two conical fermentors and I have 2-way valves on the fermentors to feed cooling coils...

OK, I think I am a little confused. If the chiller is setup as a hysteresis device, doesn't it need to be enabled to know when to turn on? I was thinking that I may need to use something else as my hysteresis device like a panel light and then check when it is on to start the pump and then...

Thanks, that is what I thought, but then I was starting to question it when I saw the script you posted earlier. Another one: how would you do a delayed start on a glycol chiller (AC unit)? If I set it up as a hysteresis device, it will start automatically when cooling is called for, correct...

I am going back to page 11 because I am trying to setup fermentation control with a glycol chiller, and heaters for two fermenters. I am just getting started, so I am sure I will have more questions, but here is the first: in this part of the script, is "Pump" value >=0:03:00 a typo? Is this...

Got it thanks. I think this fixes it. As for the SSR's, I got a deal on a 6 pack and have room in the box.

Thanks, I appreciate you taking a look. I am not sure I understand your comment on the 12V. It is pulling from downstream of the main contactor which should require the main switch to be on. What am I missing? I agree on the 10A. I will check what the circuit breaker it has been running on...

I built a air conditioning unit based glycol system for two fermenters several years ago. I am working on adding a RIMS to this setup and am redoing the control panel from scratch. I have read a lot of threads here and have leveraged heavily from doug293cz's great work (OK, stolen or...

I had a batch foam over and came out funky (vegetable). I decided to go to the poly carbonate lid that was used earlier in this thread. As I was disassembling the old lid, I found that there was stuff behind the silicon that was supposed to seal the cavity behind the stock lid collar. In...

I recently took mine apart while changing the lid and the inside is definitely corroded. I lubed it to getting it moving smooth again, but I am not sure how long it will last.

Chrisl77, I have not had any luck with sealing the lid and my last batch had some funk to it (not a good funk). I am planning on switching to the plastic lid like yours, but have a couple of qustions. What type of plastic did you use for the lid and what is the thickness? Also, what pump are...

I had another near incident with my coils last weekend. Previously, I had one of the compression fittings pop off when cleaning the coils. Turns out that the coils were filled with glycol and disconnected and the temperature change caused the liquid in the coil to expand. This past weekend, I...

Check out my previous post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-glycol-chilled-plastic-conical-fermenters-413406/index56.html#post6066344 I used flexwatt. Works great to bring it into the 70's when the weather is cold. The heat tape is supposed to stay under ~90F, so it may be able to...

Good progress Tricky. Your system looks great with the Al stand. The insulation helps a lot with temp control. It will also help to keep condensation down, especially if it is humid where you are. The other reason not to leave it off, as you probably know, is light will degrade the beer. If...

As long as there is a valve after the last conical on the supply line, I don't think it matters where the return line is (within reason of course). That way all three conicals have the same supply pressure. You may want to look back earlier in the thread as packet explained this is detail.

Diptubes: Ideally, you should be able to spin them so you can get above the yeast level, but this type is not set up to do that. You will end up loosening one of the bulkhead nuts. I cut mine so it could spin without hitting the thermowell that is across from it. I then set it so the opening...

It is a little tough to see, but I think that all you need to do is bypass the unit on the left by connecting the two red wires together that are plugged into it. This is the thermostat and you will not need it since the temperature controller will take care of cycling the AC on and off. Is it...

The coils are a bit tricky and you will need some trial and error. I have some spring type tubing benders that I used to get the right angle on the coil ends. You will need to do this as the angle is too much to just torque them over into the compression fittings. I think it is also important...

Interesting idea. Would you screw the gamma collar on? Or is that where the hot glue comes in? With sticky o-rings, you may have to put a bit of force onto the collar when opening it, so if it is just glued, it might give out at some point. I would be concerned with hot glue. I am not so...

Can you post pictures of your controls and the wiring inside? Generally, you just need to bypass the temperature control part. There will be power and neutral and ground connections into the controls from the plug, the power will be routed through the switch and the Power and neutral will go...