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The only con is bending it...the stuff it heavy, thick, and 60ft is a chore to bend around a keg.....Make sure you have a couple beers ready for consumption.

It was on clearance in west bend. I got 3 - 1/2 60ft. They also had 5/8 and 1/2 50' still on the shelf.

You did not kill the yeast from the light....yeast dies from heat. Skunking happens with the hop oils and UV light. Personally, I would just leave it in the primary for 2-3 weeks, skip the secondary......as you are new to the process.....K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid)....however, I don't...

Is this still available? I'm interested in it all.

Like everyone else said, if you clean them as you go, its a lot less work when its bottling time. I use the same this, however if you give some away, you might get them back with a little funk growing in side. Its not the easiest to get with the bottle brush, and oxyclean soak might take too...

Bronchitis, cold, flu are usually caused by the same virus. The virus only survives on surfaces for 24 hours. I'm not sure how long it would last in a 'closed' environment, such as a beer bottle. Wait until you feel better. Enjoy a couple beers and see if you get sick...if you do, rename...

I don't know about that specific kit, but you should check out the Fruit Beer Recipe section. You will see that most will make the extract kit like normal. Then after a week or 2 of fermenting in the primary, it is racked on top of the fruit in a secondary.

Personally, I'm not a fan of wheat beer, so I don't have any recommendations in that area. I only brewed 2 extract kits, both from midwest: a Kolsch and Amber..both were very good. Since then I switched to all grain. But here is my normal rotation: Seasonal: Start Kolsch so its ready...

If single stage you mean no secondary, there is nothing wrong with that. With your IPA, you can dry hop in the primary. Onto your bulletted questions: - Using a blow-off tube vs airlock depends on how much headspace you have. I start with a blow-off tube for 3 days, or when the bubbles...

PM coming your way.

If you have plastic carboy, which I'm assuming. I put a scoop of generic oxyclean (Awesome Clean/Dollar Tree Brand), and 1 gallon of warm water. Then I use a solid carboy bung (without the hole drilled) and place it upside down in my sink or garage. Make sure the cleaner is in contact with...

Another option would be to fill the sink with ice water and use a pump to pump the water through the IC. http://www.harborfreight.com/264-gph-submersible-fountain-pump-68395.html For the first couple minutes, use the hot water to clean up with, then just recirculate back into the sink...

Just placed my order, should be set for a year.....thanks.

My Standard fridge (converted to kegerator), needs at least 3" shafts. I actually need 4" shafts because I have a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of wood inside the door, to help spread out the tightening of the shaft nuts.

Bound to win eventually.

I could be interested in just the brew kettle, if looking to separate.

Waiting in line, jut in case it falls through.

You make it to milwaukee at all, I'd take the sanke and BB off your hands?

Sorry, I wasn't sub'd to the thread. For entertainment, attached is a picture. I think I'm just going to dump it. It was a 3.5 G scaled-down Centennial Blond. Cost of grain was about $7. Thanks for all the replies. I did this another time (mashed one day, boiled the next) and...

So, I tried to break up brew day into 2 smaller days. So I mashed my grains, and stored by wort in a sanitized carboy. The intention was to boil the wort down, and pitch the yeast today. Well I'm ready to boil today, and the carboy has a thick head of krausen!!! I was going to accept a...