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the problem is the NPT coupling and the straight threaded heater elements. sometimes they play well together, sometimes not. the locknut is almost the size of a half-coupling on it's own. have you had luck screwing elements into the couplings?

so i bought an NPT coupling off mcmaster and planned to have it welded onto my kettle. however, whether or not the elements screw in enough seems to be hit or miss. i just got some of the stainless locknuts from bargain fittings, and all the elements i have screw in nicely. is there any...

i seem to remember reading somewhere here that dumping hot water directly into one of the 10g rubbermaid coolers is a recipe for disaster (warping, cracking, etc.). just a word of caution. p.d.

just an FYI tip. apparently there are different grades of teflon tape. the white stuff is meant for 3/8" and smaller fittings. the pink (high density) stuff is meant for 1/2" and larger fittings. yellow is meant for gas/propane lines. my 1/2" NPT inlet manifold for my march pump had these...

gearmotor: 100 RPM AC Gearmotor i forget who it was that found these, but credit goes to them. for the HLT i'll be moving up to the 150 rpm version. post #5 has a picture of the copper coil inside the HEX. most people just use the HLT as the HEX. i decided to build a smaller...

can't believe i started this in march. thought for sure i'd be done already. built the brew stand. piped and mounted everything. had the electrician install 20 amp 120 V and 30 amp 240 volt GFI outlets. i still need to build the HLT control box, install the heater element in it, and put a...

i gapped mine slightly smaller than the factory setting and have yet to see a stuck sparge on 10+ batches, covering everything from rye IPA's to oatmeal stouts. a lot may depend on what drill you use. i have a cordless that has high and low rpm gears. i get maybe 200-300 rpm on low. i can...

http://vwrlabshop.com/reynolds-wrap-aluminum-foil/p/0014244/ part number 29952-155 might work for wrapping up the wood or attaching with adhesive. anything over 0.001" of an inch thick is considered a water barrier and free of any punctures from the manufacturing process.

another weekend, more progress. next step will be to build some kind of frame to mount everything on so i can free up my ping pong table again. had to replace the SS braid with a manifold: leak testing: i was able to get 15-17' feet of 1/2" copper tubing into the 2 gallon...

change the Pb parameter (input offset). mine was about 9 degrees off on an RTD probe. p.d.

search mcmaster carr for part number 7545A471. it's food grade silicone sealant. downside is, once you've used it, you're stuck with what you installed in your mashtun.

yeah. those things are a fantastic find for the price. i plan on adding one to the HLT (obviously), but also another one with a turbine impeller for cooling down the wort after a boil. i'm planning on plumbing the outlet of the immersion chiller into the septic tank drain where the washing...

based on the copious amounts of information here, as well as the permission of SWMBO, i've started to build an electric HERMS system so that i can ditch propane. i started out building a control box with all the stuff on the "front" of the box. but having borderline OCD when it comes to...

i'm trying to size all my electrical equipment for a HERMS setup, and i checked out the PDF manual for the march pump off their website. it lists the motor as 1/25 hp, 93 watts, and 1.4 amps. none of these numbers actually match if you convert them. anyone have any idea how much juice this...

i'm in the process of researching parts of my build. i use a lot of omega stuff in my lab at work, and planned on using these SSR's: SINGLE-PHASE SSR Vdc & Vac Input/ Vac Output. DIN Rail or Panel Mount they've got a lot of "extras" over the auber SSR's. not that they're all necessary, but...