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It is quite possible to bottle-condition in larger bottles, but a standard growler (basically what you linked to) is kind of iffy for the purpose of bottle-conditioning for carbonation. The pressure created may very well either leak out of the cap or even fracture the glass altogether. 22 oz...

As craigd said, this beer is all about the yeast. I think this (and maybe the Tripel or other Belgians) is/are the only kits I've seen at NB that don't offer both liquid and dry yeast. Liquid only. If you're intimidated with liquid needing a starter, etc. -- I smacked the pack in the morning...

This is essentially what I do and don't have problems scorching either (full 5 gallon boil, though). The thing about adding it pre-boil is that the other reason people tend to add it later is because it will darken the longer it is "cooked." So by adding it pre-boil, you'd be significantly...

I just put a cup or so of Starsan in a pyrex measuring cup and count out about 30 caps or so and drop them in there (VERY rough count, I don't spend much time at all). When I fill I just pull out a cap and stick it on top of the bottle. Once I have about 6 or 8 bottles filled, I'll just go by...

The kits that come with two buckets and a carboy; here's the deal: One bucket (without the spigot) is the primary fermenter. It's sized for 7.5 gallons or so, to be big enough to hold the krausen (layer of foam), generated by an active primary fermentation, without overflowing the container...

I'm planning a recipe of my own that's just light DME and 10L, with a much different hop schedule -- I'm curious what the actual color is that you get? I would expect pretty light (5-6 SRM), but my recollection is that Two-Hearted is more like 10 or so? Does yours come out that dark with Light...

Given the names they're using ("Golden Light," etc.) I assumed Briess, but as far as I can tell it doesn't explicitly say.

If you're not mixing anything else into it, bulk aging for a LONG time, or anything like that -- I wouldn't secondary. It's just another transfer step and IMO the "risks" and hassle aren't worth whatever benefit it's supposed to provide (extra clarity? though I don't quite understand what a...

Eh, not with shipping. I've never ordered from dmemart so I don't know about their service, etc. (Midwest has been great for me) -- but with shipping cost in the mix it's $43.96 (dmemart) vs. $54.20 (midwest) for me.

My first batch had/has a flavor that I wasn't totally happy with. My second batch is now ready to drink, and man, is it gooooooood. Temperature's almost 60 today, ice is melting, and I sat on the deck this afternoon with my first really good homebrew, looking just like you describe. I could...

I've heard to avoid root beer because the flavor/aroma persists more than other beverages. I think the term for the type of bottle is PET. They will handle, according to a chart I saw at Northern Brewer, more volumes of CO2 pressure than a champagne bottle, so no worries there. As long as you...

I have a batch of this that's on the tail end of bottle-conditioning (just drank a bottle a few minutes ago, actually), and HOLY COW is it a tasty beverage. I'm going to have trouble saving enough for my Mardi Gras party :fro:

Very, very interesting to me that you posted this. I've been thinking about this a lot -- I have only 2 brews under my belt so far. One has a funny taste, and the other tastes great. The funny-tasting one I topped off with a bit of boiled tap water. The reason I've been thinking about this...

I read somewhere (and now I have no idea where, but I do remember it) that when crushing grains for steeping you actually want a very light crush, basically just crack the hull open, as opposed to breaking the things apart. My first kit (from midwest) came with these uncrushed-looking grains...

I'm pretty sure hopville is wrong on this: I noticed the other day when I built a recipe with Briess, but the LHBS only had Munton's. So I bought it, and everything changed in hopville. I noticed that it lists the PPG for Munton's at something like 35. I asked a few people, read around, and...

What's your process after bottling? How long do you leave it before refrigerating, and then how long do you chill it before drinking? I ask because my first two beers -- I tasted them all the time (gravity samples, bottling time, young bottles, etc.). After a week in the fermenter they both...

I brewed this same kit a week and a half ago with no modifications (yet) and the standard S-04 yeast (properly rehydrated). I got a HUUUUGE blowoff through the blowoff tube for a good 4 days after pitching, then switched to airlock, which is still bubbling every 10 seconds or so. I haven't...

If you get a test jar, it doesn't really take that much to float the hydro in. A very small glassful. About 2-3 shotglasses worth, probably. As long as it's sanitary, I don't see a problem with putting it right in the bucket -- I would feel comfortable doing this with a hydro that just came...

Thanks for asking this, I've been wondering for a long time and forgot to ask. I would assume if you're adding fruit and things like that, primary wouldn't be ideal just due to the sheer amount of solid material that will accumulate, correct (not much of a concern with an ounce of two of hops)...

I'm glad I'm not the only one. I've been steeping in the full volume, and as far as I can tell everything's great.