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I end the boil with 11 liters (2.9) gallons which fits very well. The largest I have make was a 15.9 liter batch (4.2 gal) which did involve doing a batch sparge with one of my old kettles and I was about a couple of liters below the top of the Anvil. I used Fercap S just before the boil...

The only time I had a problem with the ring popping out, it was self inflicted. I gently pull on the ring before installing it to make the gap at least an inch wide. The ring then holds in place with enough pressure to keep it from slipping with incidental contact.

It is really easy in BeerSmith. I make 10 liter batches as my standard size. I can enter in any recipe with the amounts which are published and then use the slider to adjust the OG, IBU, and even color if wanted to match the targets from the original.

Easiest method is just do a linear scale based upon volumes. This will get you close, but not an exact replication of the original recipe. Differences in process can lead to significant differences in results. The best method is to use software to scale the recipe to better fit your process...

No software has a clue what you brew on until you give it the information it needs. Likewise, the Anvil recommendations don't account for my grain absorption very well nor trub losses.

I use an immersion chiller. Most of the time it has been the one which came with the Anvil. When i brew inside, I can reach the tap with my old chiller which has more surface area down into the kettle. Realistically, the difference has not been huge, maybe an extra 5 to 10 minutes and is more...

I also do the majority of my brews at 10 L (2.6 gal). I was doing BIAB with a 5.5 gall kettle and have switched to the 6.5 gal Anvil. I've been brewing on it for over a year now and it fits my brewing style very well. I still do a full volume BIAB and have had plenty of room to make...

The Anvil recommendations are pretty basic and generic. When you start using brewing software and customize the equipment profile to the way you want to brew, you will get more accurate and consistent results. For every 100 brewers there are about 120 different ways they brew. (OK, there may...

The % attenuation listed in the yeast specifications is an expected test result for that strain on a standardized laboratory (all-grain barley) wort. Each recipe we brew varies from that standardized wort in a variety of ways. So you are correct in your premise that it is the performance of...

It means exactly what you stated. You add the grains at the first temperature rest to allow the protease enzymes to further degrade the proteins within the kernels before raising the temperature up to saccharification rests where the starches will solubilize and the anylase enzymes will be more...

One of the failings of the water tab in latest update was its inability to respond to the amount of water which the user entered into the recipe but limited the calculations to the 'total water needed' calculation within BeerSmith. It has been brought up enough times on the BeerSmith forum that...

TRS-80 Model 1, tape drive, String Floppy, later dual disk drives. programmed in assembly, Basic, Forth, and Fortran. In fact, I still have it all in my basement stored away for some odd reason. Disks are probably dead by now. Went to college and had to digress to punch cards for a while...

Emojis 2020 edition.

The strain you want is dependent upon your goals for the beer. I have used both and find that the WY1275 gives me a more balanced, clean beer with very little fruity esters. It does not emphasize either hops nor malt flavors. WY1469 produced a maltier beer emphasizing the bready, biscuit...

Having checked the difference in gravity between the wort outside the pipe versus work inside the pipe, I can attest to the large differential between the two which Doug293cz has referenced. The liquid outside the pipe gets a slow migration of the sugars due to the difference in concentration...

Item 1: How long did you allow the trub to settle before transferring the wort into the fermenter? I give my wort at least a half hour after chilling to allow the protein mass on the bottom to settle and compact a bit. This provides a good clean transfer and the trub on the bottom of my kettle...

I do a full volume no sparge mash with my Anvil. I have both a Wilser bag and a Brew Bag which I use to line the mash basket, both fit pretty well into the mash basket with only a little folding or overlap. With this unit, I have found that the keys to good consistent mash efficiency are a...

From measurement there are 3.29 liters (0.87 gal) of water under the malt pipe. This leaves 1.13 gallons of mash water in contact with your grains (it is actually less due to the water outside the mash pipe, but I am simplifying things). My typical grain bill would be around 0.93 kg (~2 lbs)...

The yeast calculators were developed before White Labs went to their new packaging. Additionally, they err to the low side of viability as a matter of practice. I did cell counts on many packages of varying ages of both Wyeast and White labs (vials back then), just to get myself trained. From...

Ales typically stay in primary for 8 to 12 days before cold crashing for 3 to 4 days and packaging. Some higher gravity ales I will give an extra 5 to 7 days before cold crashing. Lagers will get 10 to 18 days in primary before a 2 to 3 day rise to the low 60's and then cold crash for a...