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Go ahead and rack - if the SG is not changing, then the ferment is basially done, and what you are seeing is excess CO2 coming out of solution. Even if the SG is still changing a little, it's still OK to go to the secondary.

The overcarbonation is probably not from too much priming sugar, since the overcarbonation only develops over time. Since you wait so long in the primary, it's not from obvious incomplete fermentation either. So my guess is that you have very slow fermentation of complex sugars over time. I've...

OK, I'll give this a whack. The addition to OG would be straightforward if you knew the SG and volume of the juice you would get if you could separate it from the crud in the puree. The crud is ignorable - it won't contribute to fermentables, and will get separated out at some point in the...

Hmm, I can remember being bedeviled by a Russian imperial stout once, too. Made for a very late night, but it turned out great. I'm sure yours will, too. The longer ferment for a beer this strong is normal - give it however long it needs! It would be tough to hazard a guess how long, since that...

I think the Montrachet would be a modest improvement. Champagne yeast is very dry and very neutral. For a cider, I think the Montrachet would give you something more nuanced. I find the dryness with Champagne yeast to be a little austere with cider or fruit wines. The differences are subtle, though.

Your ferment temperature will depend on your choice of yeast ... see Wyeast Laboratories : Home Enthusiasts : Brewers : Yeast Strain Guide, if you happen to be using Wyeast. If you've picked the Wyeast Koelsch strain, 55 - 60F is recommended. A Koelsch is pretty light in color, so pick as...

This sugar profile is plausible, but would be remarkably unfermentable. More typical (from John Palmer's book) would be: Maltose: 50% Maltotroise: 18% Glucose: 10% Sucrose: 8% Fructrose: 2% Unfermentable Sugars: 12% As you say, grain/mashers have some control over this profile...

There's no problem at all with this plan. If you were going to store it at 85F, it might be worth thinking about whether that's OK, but 3 months storage at 65F should be no problem for any well made homebrew.

I'd call this a pale ale of some sort - your prioritization of flavor over style is right on the money, I think. With the heavy emphasis on Australian ingredients, how about Boomerang Pale Ale (they keep on coming back for more...). Dos Locos

Yes, confusing wording, but yes, higher temperature -> less diacetl. Warming up for diacetl reduction is much more important for lagers ... I never even thought to worry about it for ales. Dos Locos

Looks like an excellent APA to me. I'm not familiar with EdWorts Haus Pale Ale, but an APA would typically have slightly more hop backbone. If it were me, I'd use 1.5 oz Hallertauer at 60 min rather than the 1 oz. Cheers, Dos Locos

The most critical time is during the active ferment - should be a week or less, unless you're making a stronger ale. The 5 week cycle for a regular ale seems really long. Dos Locos

This looks like a great attempt to clone - just do it, and figure out what to fine tune next time. Repeated iterations will bring you to perfection, and will keep your open wallet away from SFBC&T to boot. Everything I can discern from the description, you already have covered. It's been a very...

There's no reason not to do it this way. Enzyme activity and denaturing vary gradually over temperature, so any particular choice of time/temperature is somewhat arbitrary. With the continuous/gradual approach, more of your conversion will probably be done at a lower temperature, so the result...

This sounds like a delicious recipe - please proceed! However, it won't much resemble a dunkelweizen, so if that's what you have your heart set on, here are some things to think about. For the style, this recipe would put you way over the top for starting gravity, color, and bittereness. The...

As long as the yeast was in good health at the end of the ferment, there is very little risk that the lager will not carbonate. The last batch that failed to carbonate for me was over 15 years ago, and it had more to do with underpitching a barleywine than anything else. OTOH, if you have the...

Yes - 1/2 to 1 oz. would be a good amount, depending on age, freshness, type, form. I tend to be heavy-handed with hops, and don't sub-divide below 1-oz increments, but you are clearly looking for subtlety - 1/2 oz should be fine. Dos Locos

This is a marvelous way to experiment. If you have a brew partner who wants to, say, make a rosemary-kiwi mead, it's a good way to limit your committment. If it turns out great, you can always follow up with 5 gallons. Most parts of the recipe simply scale. Hops are one that do not - use just a...