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Tell us what your current process is? If it is just Mr. Beer, then any change will be an improvement. I suspect you are past that stage, but you have given us nothing to go on. There are lots of things that can improve someones process, but without any idea of what you are doing, I would say...

If you keg you could get away with 5 days. Bottling; I would say there is a real risk of bottle bombs with a 5-day schedule .... sometimes it takes a couple of days for the yeast to get started. For most beers I use a 4-week schedule. It could be quicker, but it fits my system and I know my...

I would mash it.

Good luck, report back if you have success. Personally, I think you are just going to waste expensive syrup, and get very little extra flavor than you would get from adding plain sugar. Maybe there are other flavoring options. Do some research on it.

For the most part beer brewers are anal about sanitizing their equipment. If you start with clean equipment and keep it clean, then chance of infection is small ...... but when you get one, you kick yourself for not taking that extra step that would have prevented the waste of money and time...

I take refrac measurements after mash to ensure I get the efficiency I expect. The next measurement is when I bottle; I take an hydrometer reading at bottling to check that nothing strange has happened. Also I get to drink the hydro sample which tells me more about the beer than the reading...

5 gravity points per gallon is roughly 0.5% abv. You can ignore it. But if you really want to end up with the original called out gravity, yes, you can replace some of the malt with the mash.

If you use the kit to make only 40% of the volume, the FG will also increase proportionally, and while you will get higher gravity, it will end up very sweet.

Not much you can do about this batch now. Extracts don't have any enzymes. You pretty much wasted the wheat and oats. They will have contributed some haze forming starches. You some base malt grains to mash (2-Row, Pale Malt, Pilsner, etc. Keep mash temp between 148 and 155 F for 20 mins...

I suspect your OG reading is wrong, otherwise your original beer would have only had an OG of 1.043, and potential for only 4.5% abv. You will still make beer if you leave it alone, but only get 4.7% abv. I would probably have added 1.5 lbs of extract to get the abv up and keep the malt...

Unless you add some grain with enzymes (base malt), you will not be mashing. You will just steep the flakes, and get some starch, which will make the beer cloudy, but it is a dark beer, so may not matter. 0.5 lbs of Flaked Barley (or wheat or oats, etc), and 0.5 lbs crushed 2-row (or Pale...

Arrogant Bastard. Use it as 10% of the malt. Research threads on this site and you will see the consensus is that AB is probably made with Cara-aroma rather than Special B. I use it for my AB Clones, or variations of that beer. Need lots of Chinook hops to make the beer.

If kept cool, I would be surprised if a 2 year pack did not work in a starter. I have not tried it, but I suspect even a 4 year old pack would have viable cells after 4 years of proper storage. I have revived yeast from starters (make starter and store some) after 3 years of being stored. Not...

I checked 90% because there wasn't anything higher. It has probably been 20 years or more since I last dumped a brew ...... It was so memorably that I can still remember the vinegar taste of the beer. I don't think I have had a brew that I would consider bad since then. I've made a number of...

You may get some flavors developed by the yeast at high temp. They may not be bad at all, but you will certainly not get the clean ferment you would normally expect from S-05. The real problem is going to be if you developed higher alcohols. You should be able to taste it, and if they are...

Refractometer or Hydrometer? Refrac needs a conversion. Any preservatives in the carrot juice. Low Ph makes yeast go slow (if it works at all).

The fruit will lower the alcohol. The solids that you take out of the beer at the end will have more alcohol in them than you created with the added fruit. You need to get to 140 F to pasteurize. I usually take fruit to 150 - 160. The higher the temp, the quicker it pasteurizes (30 mins for...

No reason to mix the yeasts. You would have no idea which contributed what flavors. Most Belgian yeasts will ferment to a dry finish (I have not checked these two strains). You seem to know how to make a starter. I would just take one of the packs, smack it and make a starter with it. Swirl...

Looks like 1.010 to me. That brew is probably finished.

You can get the smell of sulfur (rotten eggs) from some fermentations, and you are not going to disguise that. I don't think I have ever gotten it with beer fermentation, but have had it with cider. I'm not sure what causes it, probably lack of nutrients or something. Cider is very lacking in...