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Unfortunately, this is what I am working with. Neutral is definitely connected to the grounding bar, and the dryer outlet is only 3 prongs. What are my options?

I have seen people doing this, but am confused as to how people have been wiring these. What do you do for a ground wire connection if you are only running 12/3 to the spa panel? Where do you place the spa panel? Next to your brew panel, or near your drier outlet? Thanks

Hey guys, I am going to be powering a 5500W element from a dryer receptacle. There are 30A breakers in the main panel. I may not be in the same house much longer, so I need a portable solution. I am having a hard time finding the in-line 30A GFCI cords. Where is the best place to find them (at...

Hey guys, I am working on a budget eBIAB build, and am looking for some input from people who have brewed a lot with a similar system. Which interface components on the control panel are truly necessary? Do I need a buzzer? Do I need an element indicator light in addition to the light that is...

I guess I am operating under the assumption that it would be cheaper to just use a cam lock to attach it to the kettle than using a TC assembly.

Has anyone used a camlock fitting to attach this to the side of their kettle? That way, you could recirculate during the mash, then disconnect and attach this for the boil. Thanks!

My question is mostly focused on the boil-off part. If the specialty grains don't contribute any diastatic power, then you are essentially adding flavored water, so it would be best to minimize the volume added to the keg to avoid altering the gravity.

I tried to do a late-mash-addition with my roasted barley and chocolate malt in my oatmeal stout. It definitely ended up too light. Can I steep some of each of those grains in warm water, boil down to a fairly negligible volume, and then just add to my keg? Thanks

It's hard to pass up such a nice, clean enclosure for the element. Especially with a built-in grounding post.

I am looking at it as an option since it has the built in housing for the electrical connections. Did you go with the 2" tri-clamp version? I am wondering if it is worth it to do this since most elements and bulkhead kits are 1.5"

How pleased are you with the Dernord element you bought?

I have read some materials recently talking about people's recirculation methods actually seeming to be detrimental, not beneficial. So how do you build a kettle with a useful recirculation function? Where do you put the temperature probe? What device do you use to evenly distribute the...

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Maybe I can hook up a blower to the dryer exhaust and just use that?

This may be a stupid question: if I am just doing a 60-minute boil in my basement using an electric element, do I need good ventilation? All I really have are small vents in the privacy glass that sits in the windows in the basement wall. If it is critical, does anyone have a cheap solution? I...

I am actually looking to restrict myself to 2.5 gallon batches and do a max of 5 gallons. I can always use extract for bigger 5 gallon brews. I don't drink enough to consistently make 5 gallon batches; especially if I'm not satisfied with the taste.

Thanks for the reply. I am currently entertaining the idea of getting a custom Spike 10 gallon kettle. Tri-clamp fitting for the element, NPT ports for (1) liquid out, (2) temp probe, (3) mash recirculation, (4) whirlpool/chiller return.

What are your impressions of the Bru Gear kettle? Seems like too good of a deal to pass on.

So you drilled your own hole for the element?

I need some non-electrical help: I am looking for some help on putting together a kettle for my eBIAB build. I had initially planned on using my thin-walled aluminum kettle which already has a ball valve in it, but I have read that aluminum and stainless have some unwanted interactions when...