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I tried a Dewalt cobalt bit and Tap Magic to no avail. Went very slowly, but won't drill very far. I ordered a set of carbide-tipped masonry bits to try.

Nope.

Oh my, I am embarrassed..... I loosely "connected" those three wires a week ago to test fit and length. I intended to strip the insulation later, which I forgot to do after finishing the rest of the wiring.... All three have been stripped, the error is gone, and it seems to be reading an...

Will do when I get home. From memory, I believe I have the "center" pin of the XLR connector connected to pin 5 of the EZBoil.

Any quick way to troubleshoot probe connections into the EZBoil? I thought I had everything connected correctly, but am getting the "orAL" error message. The probe is just hanging in the air. Edit: I should add that the probe is a premade probe from The Electric Brewery.

I've got a brand new cobalt bit and a can of WD-40. I guess we'll see how that goes.

I am trying to drill multiple holes in my stainless kettle for some tri clamp fittings. I have tried using both a 1/8" HSS twist bit and the pilot bit on a hole saw, however I am making no headway on getting a pilot hole drilled. The material is only 1.2mm thick, I am using WD-40 as oil, I am...

Yeah, this was one of the first times I used an iron that was adjustable, so I had no idea what setting to use.

Right. Understood.

For me, it's not about meeting code. It's moreso about doing everything I can to maintain peace of mind in regards to safety.

I drilled into the bottom lip of the door and used a screw with a locknut. Works fine, and doesn't look too bad, but it makes me question the strength of the welds on the grounding posts inside the enclosure now.

I used flux on both leads, tinned both, and turned up the iron to about 700deg. I also used a higher quality receptacle. No problems here the second time around.

@Bobby_M Any update on an ETA for your version?

Just tried to tighten a locking nut on the door ground post for my Auber enclosure, and it snapped clean off. It just had a single tiny tack weld holding it to the door.... I am just using two switches, a buzzer, and an EZBoil on the door. I measured 0.2 ohms resistance between the bare spot on...

Is it better to use a higher temperature for the soldering iron for a shorter period of time? Or a lower temperature for a longer period of time? I can go anywhere from 350-850 degreesF.

I just bought a connector that has silver or gold plated contacts. Doesn't say which one. I am using .025" diameter leaded solder as well - I would think that would be small enough. Should I use flux as well?

I used a temp controlled iron at 525 degrees. I did not tin each connection, so I reckon I held the iron to each pin for 30+ seconds. The solder would not flow without that much time. And I did 3 pins back to back to back. The plastic doesn't look melted, the pins are just cock eyed. And I kind...

I successfully soldered wire leads onto my panel-mount XLR receptacle from Auber. However, in the process, the pins got all wonky because of the plastic surrounding them getting heated and melting. Any way to fix this? Any panel mount receptacles with metal, and not plastic? Thanks

I just realized that the built in relay can only handle 3A of current.....woops. I guess I'm going to order another 25A SSR from Amazon (there is actually an Inkbird model available) and wire it like you suggested. I will drill and tap the necessary holes for both on the 40A heatsink. The EZBoil...

Definitely room for 2 SSRs - you just have to pay for the 60A heatsink. I guess I will build it, experiment, and then go from there.