Messed Up XLR Pins

[butterblum]

I successfully soldered wire leads onto my panel-mount XLR receptacle from Auber. However, in the process, the pins got all wonky because of the plastic surrounding them getting heated and melting.
Any way to fix this?
Any panel mount receptacles with metal, and not plastic?
Thanks

 

[golfindia]

Yep.
A) a temp controlled soldering iron.
And
B) a heat sink.

I think I got that heat sink with a free radio shack coupon in highschool, and the hexacon thermotrac came from aerospace MFG surplus sale.

 

[augiedoggy]

Were you using a solder gun or a torch? (Kidding)

Honestly please dont get offended, If you were a proficient solderer that shouldnt have happened at all, even with a cheap soldering gun, if you "tin" both the connector pin and wire with flux and then solder before joining them the whole process should only take a few seconds. To melt the connectors you would have really have had to be messing with it for a while.

I'm not the best at soldering, but I must have soldered at least 20 of these by now for the panels I've built. and haven't melted the connectors yet.(I use cheaper 99 cent connectors from ebay though)
Maybe your using the wrong type of solder for the iron you have?
id check out youtube videos on this subject..
I have a rework station now but I still just set the iron to 480 degrees. and the first panels I did I used an old $10 radio shack iron.

btw you wont find any connectors that dont use something other than metal which would be conductive, to hold and insulate the pins from each other.. even the pricey ones Ive seen use plastic. or bakelite type material.

 

[butterblum]

I used a temp controlled iron at 525 degrees.
I did not tin each connection, so I reckon I held the iron to each pin for 30+ seconds. The solder would not flow without that much time. And I did 3 pins back to back to back.
The plastic doesn't look melted, the pins are just cock eyed. And I kind of chewed them up trying to straighten them. I can still get the plug in, I would just rather have a cleaner looking receptacle. I guess I'll just buy a new one off Amazon and make sure to tin both ends.

 

[golfindia]

The other problem with some of those pins is that they are chrome plated. Tough for solder to stick. A few times I've also taken a tiny hobby exacto knife and twisted it inside the pins to scrape a little of the chrome off.

 

[augiedoggy]

I use plumbers flux on these actually and find it works great and bonds in less than a second.. I think depending on the diameter and type of solder I could see issues... some of the new lead free stuff doesnt flow well at all. I use the tiny gauge stuff when using it. I also hate repairing tv boards that use it since its hard to reflow.

honestly in my setup, I only disconnect my probes at the kettle and never see a need to touch the connections at the panel..

 

[butterblum]

I just bought a connector that has silver or gold plated contacts. Doesn't say which one.
I am using .025" diameter leaded solder as well - I would think that would be small enough.
Should I use flux as well?

 

[John Eberly]

You don’t need flux if you have rosin core solder. Plumbing flux is acid and not compatible with electrical connections.

The newer no-lead RoHS solder melts at a higher temp, probably not what you want. Plain old 60/40 rosin core should be fine. Make sure to clean the tip of your iron shiny bright and tin it (melt clean solder over it)

 

[augiedoggy]

You don’t need flux if you have rosin core solder. Plumbing flux is acid and not compatible with electrical connections.

The newer no-lead RoHS solder melts at a higher temp, probably not what you want. Plain old 60/40 rosin core should be fine. Make sure to clean the tip of your iron shiny bright and tin it (melt clean solder over it)

I beg to differ.. it does work fine, been using it for years.. I understand the difference between rosin core and solid core. they sell electrical solder without the rosin core as well as I have both.

 

[butterblum]

Is it better to use a higher temperature for the soldering iron for a shorter period of time? Or a lower temperature for a longer period of time? I can go anywhere from 350-850 degreesF.

 

[golfindia]

I always set mine at 650-700 for everything. The only thing I change based on the job type is the tip. Fat, skinny, pointy, wedge, angled....

 

[John Eberly]

I beg to differ.. it does work fine, been using it for years.. I understand the difference between rosin core and solid core. they sell electrical solder without the rosin core as well as I have both.

By all means continue if you have good results. No intention to start an argument!

There are flux products made specially for electrical and electronics applications - I’ll leave it at that.

 

[augiedoggy]

By all means continue if you have good results. No intention to start an argument!

There are flux products made specially for electrical and electronics applications - I’ll leave it at that.

I wont argue with that and I do also have that flux and keep it in my portable soldering kit for work., All im saying is the plumbing stuff is compatible and does in fact work fine with 60/40 electrical solder as well as the thinner stuff I have with .39% lead it tends to stay on smaller pins and such better than the liquid stuff depending on what your soldering.

 

[golfindia]

The label on all the plumbing solders that I have specifically say "not for electronics use". Maybe because it has zinc chloride in it.

 

[butterblum]

I used flux on both leads, tinned both, and turned up the iron to about 700deg.
I also used a higher quality receptacle.
No problems here the second time around.

 

[Hop]

Is it better to use a higher temperature for the soldering iron for a shorter period of time? Or a lower temperature for a longer period of time? I can go anywhere from 350-850 degreesF.

Higher temperature, less time. The temp you used was way low. Do a couple of test runs on junk you don't need. If it takes more than a few seconds to melt, the temperature is too low.

With the solder I use and mostly though-hole components (I make guitar pedals and cables as another hobby), my iron is usually set to 750. Each joint takes a few seconds.

 

[butterblum]

Higher temperature, less time. The temp you used was way low. Do a couple of test runs on junk you don't need. If it takes more than a few seconds to melt, the temperature is too low.

With the solder I use and mostly though-hole components (I make guitar pedals and cables as another hobby), my iron is usually set to 750. Each joint takes a few seconds.

Yeah, this was one of the first times I used an iron that was adjustable, so I had no idea what setting to use.