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Has anyone removed the little drain fitting from their Danby to fit a CO2 line so that they can run their CO2 from outside the kegerator? It looks like it may be glued in their, and it may have a rubber piece that waterproofs it. I didn't want to hack away at it without asking. Thanks

I am about to take my new eBIAB setup for a spin this weekend. I am planning on a stout that will serve as a starter for an RIS. I love really chewy stouts, not thin and highly carbonated stouts. Although I'm not shooting for some super high ABV beer, I want a similar appearance and mouthfeel of...

I should also mention what I consider to be the most utilitarian part of my setup. That top TC port is the connection point for three different devices during the brew day. First, I have a LocLine recirculation return with a camlock fitting for the mash. Then I remove that for the boil, and use...

I just use it to select which loop returns liquid to the kettle, because my CFC restricts the flow so much. But I agree with you, two check valves would serve the same purpose and you wouldn't have to turn another valve.

I bought almost everything from Bobby at Brewhardware, with the exception of the whirlpool arm and heating elements. The elements are the Denord 1500W stainless elements that you can find on Amazon. They have a 1.5" TC flange and L6-30 prongs built in, so it's really easy to remove them from the...

I just wanted to give some ideas to anyone looking to do an eBIAB setup. I just need a hose for water supply and a hose for a drain from my CFC, and I am ready to brew. I proofed the electronics tonight - everything is working. Is there a better way to waterproof the locking L6-30R connectors...

I'm liking the spar urethane idea, and then I can just use a 12"x12" silicone mat under the kettle to help protect the surface from direct heat.

How have you guys treated the plywood tops of your stands to keep spillovers from staining and soaking into the wood? And do you also coat it to protect it from the heat of the kettle?

I am actually going to use a couple of 3-way ball valves to control flow between two different sets of tubing. One flows straight to the whirlpool port, the other goes through the CFC before returning to the whirlpool port. I plan on using the short run of tubing for the mash recirculation and...

I am almost done with a 10 gallon eBIAB build, and I am wondering if I need to use a hop spider or not. I own one of the stainless mesh baskets that hang from the side of the kettle, but I would have to modify it to be able to keep my lid on for my steam condenser. I have only once had issues...

I am getting close to finishing my single vessel BIAB. I bought some nice plywood for my stand top, but I want to be able to seal it to prevent any spills or liquid from damaging it. Is there any sort of heat resistant clear coat I could spray over it? Thanks

I know cold solder won't free up - I meant that instead of heating it up and then dropping it onto the ground, can I just remove the hot solder by hammering it from the inside of the kettle? What other methods exist to remove solder?

I am trying to fix a TC fitting. How about a hammer to the backside of the fitting (on the inside of the pot)? Will that knock the solder off? I would use another TC ferrule, because this one is purple now.

Anyone know if there is a way to save a kettle with a joint that has burnt flux residue embedded in it? I tried a neat little coil of solder around my triclamp fitting, and evenly brought the surface of the kettle up, and then applied heat to the fitting itself, but the solder took a long time...

I could do the same, but if I hop burst/add during whirlpool, then I still need it.

It doesn't move when whirlpooling?

Trying to figure out what to do with my stainless mesh hop basket when I complete my eBIAB build. I need it, as my CFC is only 1/4" ID. I will be utilizing a steam condenser during the boil, so I cannot hang it from the side of the kettle, as the lid needs to seal tightly. I know people use JB...

I finally found a way to get through this stainless. I bought this set of bits for a pilot hole: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Multi-Purpose-Carbide-Drill-Bits-for-Drilling-Tile-Masonry-Wood-Metal-and-Concrete-5-Piece-MP500T/301372988 And I used this hole saw to cut the 32mm hole...

Both of those tips were followed, as well as using plenty of Tap Magic. There are threads out there about Concord pots using a different grade of stainless - I do not have a Concord, but I wonder if it is similar situation.

I have a carbide-tipped hole saw for the Tri-clamp hole. I just need help with the pilot hole so that I can use the hole saw. The cobalt bit I bought sucked.