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1) Thermapen 2) Thermapen 3) Thermapen 4) Thermapen Any other requirements?

I'd buy it. Kegs don't go cheap these days. Even if it was acquired through questionable means it's already cut and useless to the brewery who rightfully owns it. Unless the seller is stealing kegs and making them I'd say go for it.

Will those really hold beer carbonation pressures? It's kinda the same as just going with swing tops isn't it?

Just made up a 1.5L starter for Friday afternoon's planned Irish Red Ale brew. It will be my second all grain batch, we'll see if my 85% efficiency was fluke or not. Gonna do everything identical except I think I will sparge a lot slower this time and maybe drain to fermenter through a muslin...

If you want to know your mash efficiency you should calculate based on pre boil volume and SG. If you want brew house efficiency then it is calculated based on the volume into your fermenter and it's SG. Starch conversion is tested by an iodine test.

You win...

Hahaha, ya got me there. But what if it doesn't have the correct Thread on the other side?

So using brewers friend and a pitch rate of 2 million cells/ml/deg plato (pro brewer recommended for a big lager like yours) it suggests that you need 739 billion yeast cells. One pack of s-23 contains about 69 billion, so you technically should have pitched like 10.5 packets. That is obviously...

Sounds like you've got a good handle on it then, in short; yeah it can take a long time and it's almost certainly fine. As for the yeast, I would leave it this time and use a pitching calculator next time, just for kicks what was your OG and volume?

A check valve?

Yeah I guess I took that as obvious, OP: do you have a hydrometer?

I got a few bottles back from a friend and he had rinsed them with hot tap water right before capping them. When I opened each one it seemed to have a vacuum inside. Don't know if we're talking the same amount of vacuum but it will hold some... Plus I've seen BBQ sauce bottles in stores with...

What was the OG of this brew? And did you really pitch just 1 pack of S-23 for a lager with the potential to make 8.4 ABV? If you did don't worry too much, it may very well take a few more weeks to finish. I made the same mistake on my first (and only) lager, albeit it was a 1.047 blonde. I...

Sounds like a good reason to get a refractometer. Much harder to break, easier to take readings on the fly, no need to wait for a full hydro sample to cool, and best of all if the neighbors didn't think you were making meth before, they will once they see you taking samples through that...

It might start fermenting naturally but I'm sure a couple days in the fridge would be fine. Don't forget to add yours to the broken hydrometer count thread.

Depends what temperature you let it get up to after fermentation finished, if that is 68 then go ahead and use the 1.56oz either before or after letting it get up to room temp. I personally would rack to my bottling bucket onto the measured amount of sugar while it's still cold, then mix well...

The difference in sugar needed varies with temperature, from what I've learned on here it's not the temperature at which you mix in the sugar but the highest temperature that your beer reached after fermentation was complete. The idea is that this is supposed to account for any CO2 that is...

Another idea is to feed your counterflow chiller from the bottom up, seems counter intuitive as the hottest wort will be at the top but this way ensures that all the air is flushed out of the system as soon as the water reaches the end. I made mine so I can switch it back and forth, and without...

Mine is set to .039" and on my first AG batch I calculated a brew house efficiency of ~85%. Unconditioned grain once through the mill. Might have been a fluke, we will see this weekend on my next batch. Here's the crush I had:

Good job, fells great getting that fist one banged out eh? I just tasted the hydro sample of my first all grain that I brewed last weekend, it's gonna be hoppy :)