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Do you drain the tun before adding your sparge water? I did not see that in your process description. If you are not draining the first runnings before you add your sparge water, that is your problem. You are diluting the first runnings rather than rinsing the grain. Next time you brew, take a...

Buying and reading this book is a good place to start if you are ready to move away from kits. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0937381926/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

This is exactly what we do.

Just make sure that whatever the size it can function smaller as well. I have a 10 gallon system, but it works just as well for 5 gallons. Important things are dead space, height to width ratio, chiller design (and or RIMS/HERMS), etc. 25 gallons would be awesome, if you can still make a 10...

I have a burnt foot ESB. You are lucky it was the chiller water. Mine was the wort on its way to my newly built hop back hose clamp wasn't tight and got boiling got wort in my shoe.

Runnin' Down a Dream by Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers

I use paint strainer bags and tie them off with floss through the opening to the handle. I use mostly leaf hops and do not weigh the bag down with anything. I used to just throw the bag in without tying it to anything, then one time I had part of a bag get sucked into the dip tube (pellet hops...

Do you have a pressure gauge? Use some tubing to connect the gauge to one side, pressurize the wort line (with air/water/co2), and then let it sit and see if the pressure drops.

I attached my output thermometer with a stainless steel Tee and a compression fitting, both from BrewHardware.com see this page for details: http://brewhardware.com/thermometers/153-probecompression2 the thermometer is also from BrewHardware, a CDN digital...

I fill kegs by weight. 8.35#/gallon + keg weight (9.2#) = about 51#. I weigh them with a digital luggage scale I bought from wal-mart for like $10.

You don't have to leave the top off, just open the pressure release or put a gas pop-it on with nothing attached.

Look for the male piece at a local hardware store. That is where I buy all those fittings. Both lowes and HD don't have them buy the tiny Ace Hardware does.

I have done it from 2ft, but 3ft worked way better. I just bought this: http://amzn.com/B0002APT4A for less than $10 and made my own wort wizard. I have used it one time and with it could probably suck the wort out of the kettle from ground level. I am not sure I will ever need to buy a pump.

I highly recommend it. I have a long 20 plate from DudaDiesel and love it. I gravity feed 10 gallon batches and go from boiling to ~60*f in 10-15 minutes. Speed is highly dependent on your ground water temperature however. Have used it for about 10 batches without any issues.

Trade Completed.

Why use the HopRocket if you are using an immersion chiller anyway? Why not just throw the hops in the kettle at flame out and then chill there?

55-60 is too cold for most Ale yeasts. A 2-stage controller would allow you to put a heater in there to bring the fridge up to 65-70, which is what you need to brew Ales. Also, a controller will allow you to hit a more specific temperature than a five degree range. If you are brewing...

I have a 20 plate chiller from DudaDiesel and only loose about a quart in the chiller if I don't lift it up and drain it into my fermentor. I gravity feed from the kettle to the fermetor with the help of a wort wizzard. Did you measure your post boil volume in the kettle before transfer and...

Somewhere cool and dark like a basement or closet. As long as you used the right amount of sugar for carbonation and the beer was finished when you transfered, you will not create bottle bombs.

Kettle. Make the 8 gal your HLT. then, if you want to make a 10 gallon batch you can mash in both coolers at the same time. But really there is not much difference in design between the three, so just cut it, install some fittings and see what works best.