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If it is electric then by al means put it on the bottom (or even better cut the bottom and use the original hole in the top as the bottom.) If it goes on a burner, then you wouldn't be able to reach the valve (and the liquid I the valve would caramelize.)

Best article I have found on understanding efficiency. http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Understanding_Efficiency

What do you mean when you say slowly? Over an hour? A day? How much water do you typically add? Thanks.

Would one of you who ferments in an unmodified sankey be willing to detail your yeast washing procedure for me? I have been making a larger starter and saving some of that, but I would like to be able to save larger quantities from my lagers to minimize the number of starter steps I need.

Pitch the yeast right away. This will get the yeast started and keep the beer from getting wild stuff in it. Adding the second batch later will be just fine. I have read that when putting two batches in the same fermenter you have two options when it comes to yeast: 1. Brew both batches the...

Low apparent absorption could be a sign of grains that weren't mixed with the water well leading to lower efficiency. That could come from poor mix or bad crush. Did the way you crush your grain change at the same time you got your new MLT? If not it would not make sense to blame the crush. Do...

Are you sure you are getting the grains well mixed with the water (do you add water to grain or grain to water)? What are the volumes/gravity for first and second runnings when you batch sparged? How are you adding the sparge water when you fly sparged? Did you change anything else at the...

If you are concerned, why not just use a clean and freshly sanitized picnic tap? They break down for cleaning easily. However, in my experience, I have kept bottles for 2+ months without issue. Beer tasted the same from the bottle as the beer side by side from the keg.

Just got my 5L flask. It is pulling the vortex down about 2" into the water.

Did you have a hose attached to the outlet?

Spend your money on the fermentation side. Temperature control is the single thing that will take your brewing to the next level. A pump is nice, but will not really help you make better beer, just make the same beer with slightly less work or time. I have plate chiller and do not have a pump...

My Source: http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2012/11/03/estimating-yeast-growth/ White/Jamal's data in "Yeast" (same as Mr. Malty) is for not agitated starters. This is why yeastcalc.com and brewersfriend.com give different results for a stir plate than mrmalty.com. On yeastcalc and BF there...

I used the same thread posted above. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-stirplate-cheap-easy-build-86252/ Radio shack parts and a broken external hard drive. Hard drive magnet and power supply (12v). I use a 1" stirbar.

Go with yeast calc's numbers or look at brewersfriend.com. Both use Kaiser's numbers rather than Chris White/Jamal. Jamal's numbers are not accurate when using a stir plate. One vial with two 2L steps of 1.04 wort is fine.

I do not have my 5L flask yet, but I have used my DIY plate with a 2 gallon and 5 gallon bucket without issue.

That would've 40 at each.

Why not just carbonate the 2L bottles and skip the pouring step?

EMT will hold the weight just fine. I made a wakeboard tower out of EMT and it will support me coming out of the water without issue.

I have a DIY hop back made from a small (3L) pressure cooker that I bought of eBay ($16 with shipping) and some stainless parts from BrewHardware. It cost me about $50 total. I have put four ounces in it without a problem. I use almost all leaf hops and gravity drain with the help of a wort...

It fermented just fine. It didn't just fill the headspace. The co2 probably leaked around the stopper, like through the notch in the keg opening. Did you taste the sample, and if so how was it? That is the true test.