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His HLT pump is not magnetic drive so it should not have flow restriction or he will burn out the pump motor.

Exactly.

Mash efficiency is a combination of two separate numbers, conversion efficiency and launter efficiency. You state you are getting about 84% mash efficiency. The question is how you are getting there. You said your first wort gravity is 1.084. At 1.25qt/lb you should be closer to 1.096 for first...

By eliminating pathways. You reuse the same hoses for different steps. There is a choice between multivalve manifolds like you are planning versus having to move hoses like I am suggesting. Different approaches to the same goal. I prefer to move hoses for simplicity and versatility. Also I think...

First. Your process is fine. Your lauter is great and there is nothing wrong with topping the kettle up before the boil. However, If your goal is to increase wort from the mash, the easiest way is to increase your grist ratio. I would go up to at least 1.5qt/lb but you could go to 2.0qt/lb...

1. It appears from your drawing that you will have two pumps (HLT Recirc & MLT/Whirlpool), so your stand could be a single tier without the need to gravity drain anything. 2. I would recommend investing in QDs for several reasons: A. The cost of buying a QDs versus buying nipples is minimal...

You might want to look here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show-us-your-sculpture-brew-rig-46578/

The only reason to do the step in your example is if you only have a 1L jar/flask. Make a 2L starter and be done if you have a big enough flask.

Yes, Your efficiency did not go down, your batch size went up! With 10# of grain your efficiency was about 73-75% either way.

1. Yes it is possible the yeast was dead. This is why it is almost always a good idea to do a starter, to test viability. But, it is also possible the yeast was still in the growth phase and just not making alcohol yet. What was your OG? 2. You don't need a stir plate to make a starter. A...

Easy, drink all the beer. I leave mine in until the keg is gone. Or, dental floss.

Like this? http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/line-cleaning-pid-FT108.html

You'll be fine. The fermenting beer will create plenty of CO2 to blanket the beer. I wouldn't store it long term, but 3 or 4 weeks would be just fine.

Do you have a hose hooked up to the outside? It has to be lower than what is being sucked out.

If your goal is to be more natural, how about krausening with gyle to carbonate? http://www.brewersfriend.com/gyle-and-krausen-priming-calculator/

You will get different results at different temperatures. Depending on what you are looking for it can be good or bad for that beer and that yeast. Some yeasts kick different off flavored when fermented low and some do when fermented high, it just depends on the yeast.

I wouldn't trust beersmith's numbers. According to BrewersFriend (and yeastcalc would say the same thing) a 2L starter at 1.036 will get you 388 cells. That would be a 1.5M/ml/p pitch rate on a 5.5gal 1.050 lager, which would be plenty. If you did your second step, you would be at 547 cells or...

1. No problems with the picnic tap (but I do put hose clamps on them to be safe). I brewed a saison a few weeks a go, it sat at 45psi at 85*F for three weeks until I was ready to keg it with out issue. The sankey tap has a pressure release that will blow excess pressure at 55psi as a fail safe...

Use a double boiler method. Put your flask in a pot with water in it and then put that on the stove (or single electric burner). That will protect your flask from uneven heating.

Since your beer isn't carbed yet, yes leave the relief open. If you are transferring carbonated beer then you only want to bleed it occasionally to keep the beer under pressure.