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It's made from 88% lactic acid and water... lactic acid is lactic acid, whether it comes from a bacteria or chemically derived from acetaldehyde. I do agree that the other components in Sauermalz (malic acid, acetic acid, various esters and ketones) produce a more favorable flavor profile, but...

Acid malt is treated with lactic acid bacteria. It imparts a subtle but unique flavor that you can't get from 88% lactic acid. Call it a more complex and sharper grainy tang. It's really only detectable to my palate in a kolsch helles or pilsner Otherwise they serve the same function.

110% This I use magnum in almost every beer and I agree that CTZ and Warrior can both be a bit harsher. I tend to get vegital flavors when using low alpha nobles for bittering. Spalt is about the closest I'll do. I like Target for bittering english ales too I've had good luck doing a 100%...

To make a proper flanders red you'll need to age it in oak and blend at least 2 years worth of brews together to get the color and flavor profile you want. I also agree that 20% corn is crazy high, and I highly doubt a traditional flanders uses any corn at all. I'd recommend a simple grist of...

Depends on my mood and the beer Sometimes I just want a can of something while I'm fishing or camping. Homebrew is for enjoying with friends or at home with dinner. Like this Tripel I'm enjoying with Chimichurry flank steak and roasted sprouts

I know this is an old thread, but wanted to bring it back to life for those searching for some answers to this. In my experience this issue is a combination of: -too much hop matter in the fermenter -Dry hopping for too long -Dry hopping at too high of a pH -Dry hopping too warm I would...

So here's my take, and I'm definitely the latter. I prefer variety always in everything I do, not just beer. It's not about the beer, its about the experience of trying new things itself. I prefer new experiences rather than the same experiences repeatedly. Even if the new experiences are...

Well they certainly cancelled out. PBW has a high pH while star san has a low pH and the two will react and reach an equilibrium at some medium pH depending on the relative concentrations of each. While your beer is probably fine from a microbial perspective, there's an elevated risk of...

I stopped participating in them because I realized that buying a 50lb sack of grain to save $10 over the course of a year+ just isn't worth the hassle of storing it, plus I prefer to use more fresh ingredients. I just used my last bit of maris otter purchased at the end of 2020 I just don't...

I try to keep it 10% or less

I really like Wy1469 Amber ale is a pretty hoppy style though, it's not really a yeast driven style. Maybe you'd prefer an ESB?

I find that it also smooths hop bitterness. I'll use corn in scottish light, heavy, and export for that reason. I like the taste of it in cream ales and its also a great option for adding gravity while keeping color and body as low as possible.

I use a regular faucet with a flair tailpiece i bought from morebeer, so it literally just screws directly onto the QD. It works ok, i prefer an old fashioned party tap. It works really well with my tapcooler counterpresssure filler though.

I only connect a faucet directly to a keg if it's a flow control faucet. I've never used a flow control QD, so no experience there.

They only have 2 uses... with flow control faucets to dispense beer fir direct consumption, or with a counterpressure bottle filler for bottling from the keg Otherwise they just pour foam

I always use 90% pilsner (weyermann barke preferred), 6% white wheat, and ~3% acid malt (whatever the mash ph calls for). And a Kölsch yeast is important. You can fine tune flavors with temperature adjustment, but kolsch is a really subtle style overall. I think Vienna can overpower it...

Well I went back to find it and I misread it... nevermind! Height differential required! Sorry

Actually Bobby, I went and looked it up after he said that and it looks like it's possible to siphon uphill or on level ground using a check valve. Once the siphon is started, as long as the receiving side of the peak is sufficiently longer than the doner side of the peak, it will flow provided...

I'll second the ph strips being your problem. If you're always getting the same pH no matter what, your measurements are definitely the problem. Get a pH meter and learn how to calibrate it and use it correctly. Take a sample of wort 10 mins into the mash and cool it to room temperature and...

Ask @bracconiere... He might know ;)