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Well, I'm not necessarily going for authentic to original with this one. I just did an English porter with prominent brown malt (I do think it is a really underrated ingredient--I made a Pennsylvania Porter using a bunch with a bit of black patent that was great), so I'm shooting for a different...

I think fees are typical. Buying bulk ingredients, canners, etc. is probably typical. That and doing big batches to split in someone has the fermentation capacity. I haven't heard of a store type thing.

I actually haven't brewed this yet. I'm working on a keg of porter, and this will replace it, hopefully being brewed before it kicks so it's ready for direct swapping. I'll take a look. I'm not experienced with invert 3, so I don't know what it'll add. I'm guessing thats why this is listed as...

You can use the calculator at Mr. Malty or similar to calculate how much slurry to use. The whole cake might be overkill, but you'll need a lot of yeast, so using slurry rather than several packs should be the way to go, especially if you ferment a little cooler.

15% is still a huge efficiency swing, and you can always add a quart of distilled water to get things back to where they need to be.

I've also never brewed a sweet stout, but am working on a recipe in a more moderate gravity range. One thing I will note from my experience is that using dehusked and paler roast malts allows you to use more of them. I usually follow the standard 70/20/10% basemalt/flaked/roast in my dry...

I got one that looks just like that for a few bucks cheaper on AliExpress. The spunding valve I wanted was OOS at Morebeer, so I just ordered everything from AliEx. It fits my sanke.

I think that's the one I've used, too. Maybe it's just a taste thing.

Jamil's brown porter uses a pound and it's great.

You could mess with mash pH. For a dry stout I usually go for the lower end of the ideal range of 5.3, but other dark beers I usually do 5.5. I recently used flaked wheat in a stout and it was nice. I think 20% flaked stuff is good, and you can try 10% oats/10% barley or wheat if you want...

I'm not sure what exactly spice bread is, but stuff like munich base malt is dark and malty but not sweet. Balancing with enough bitterness will also make it not sweet.

This is interesting to hear. I am not in a position to swap the taps out at the moment, but I may keep it in mind for the future. It'll sort of be a shame, because I thought getting stainless flow control would be a buy-once-cry-once sort of investment. I remember this thought entering my head...

I agree that's weird about the wine yeast. I used to use a little wine yeast when I bottle, especially lagers and bigger beers just for cheap insurance and because it helped carbonate faster.

I feel a little less like I wasted $9 on 5mm tubing for gas now.

I don't know, but a few people have mentioned it. I'd rather not go through the trouble of replacing stuff if it's not necessary.

I have hair dryer, and may use this as an excuse to get a heat gun (should probably have one anyway) if it doesn't do the trick. A big knitting needle was a huge help with my previous install.

I don't have the scratch at the moment, but ordered the 5mm line. I cashed in an early xmas gift since hobby finds are running dry after buying a sanke keg to ferment in. My pipe-line's run dry, and the stuff should be here to do the work on my day off and have it ready as things finish...

I love this even for stouts. Bump up towards 13% roasted malts with a mix of choc, RB, and carafa malts, but cold steep in strike water overnight for a really smooth chocolatey taste. For your lager, don't use the RB, and just dehusked carafa. It'll have a smoother and less intense roast...

I've done boils for 3 gallon batches in my bayou classic 15.5 eBIAB setup.

I was thinking of ease of getting it onto the barbs on the gas side. I have seen some say they've gotten 4mm onto 1/4" barbs. I also want to have plenty of line to use to make sure I don't over-shorten.