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Pressure fermentation is about hitting the right balance for your chosen yeast and your chosen parameters. Pitch rate, fermentation temperature, gravity, initial set head pressure if desired (isn't always required) will influence the end results. Learning your chosen yeast is really important...

https://www.brewer-world.com/3-pours-of-pilsner-urquell/ Check this out

I'm not sure what just happened in this thread, maybe it was a mashing miracle 🤣

Tilt hydrometer

Do you normally employ decoctions?

Decoction is known to grant access to a bit more starch. My 3 roller at 50 rpm still doesn't open small kernels or makes every proper cracked kernel 100% available & I do stir and mix the cracked grain before underlettting. Obviously no worries if you have a corona mill gapped down.

You do run the risk of mechanically liberating starch from boiling that can end up in your fermenter. Decoction is a touchy subject, but there are subtle differences in body, foam and flavor. Weihenstephaner Helles and Weihenstephaner Premium Original are excellent examples to try side by side...

With 6# aldi Morena pure cane sugar, 10 oz karo, 64oz water and 12ml Lactic acid I yield exactly 3 qts #1. If I add the invert with 10 minutes left in the boil it will lower the kettle pH and let my kettle finings work a little better. Each qt has 4ml Lactic in it so it gives me a ballpark idea...

Once you get a handle on your base malt and what it contributes, you can play with Mg & Na. With my water and Barke pils I can't detect Na until the strike water has 80ppm. In concert with what the malt natively brings it has to be well over 100ppm and it's not unpleasant. I can detect it, but...

All great suggestions above. Raising your OG and essentially FG without getting too flabby with richer grain bills is another approach. Decoction with lower gravity beers is another way, albeit unpopular. A malty Helles is my jam.

I use it for classic North American and Continental lagers and ales under 20 SRM. For a new brewer I would suggest keeping a balanced baseline water profile and learn the ingredients first. To many moving parts every batch is very tough to gain working knowledge of what just happened.

This is some solid advice for a balanced profile that you can make a variety of styles with. Filter it a slow as you can handle and get brewing. Here's what that profile looks like with a mash pH of 5.53. I brew many classic style lagers and ales with a very similar profile.

Living in Florida you have 55 degree air pumping out of your vents 24/7 right? With a little creativity you can do anything you want right? Just asking questions????

5 days and you can safely keg at your temperature.

I have found sprinkling in dry yeast and immediately applying pressure is detrimental to much needed yeast growth. It can cause long lags and result in under pitching that can cause issues. At warmer temperatures it's kind of a wort stability test. I like to see low kräusen in under 12 hours and...

Leinies and Huber beer (was really good beer) had 16 oz long necks in returnable cases. We could return the case of bottles and get another case for $2.50 in the late 80s & early 90s. I sure miss those prices.

I prefer to pitch at 58-60 and keep it cool and let it build pressure natively. After you hit high kräusen or build over 15 psi you can let the temp wander above 65 without a problem.

I have had S189, 34/70 and Diamond kick out sulfur. It's said oxygen levels, pH or pitch rate will increase the sulfur output (even though it is natural o2 protection for lagering). I think I had less viable yeast in my situations, even though they were well within their expiration date. That...

Sam Adam's Boston lager (I miss lightship and stock ale) Anchor Steam, Liberty, Porter, Christmas ale Schell Pilsner, Octoberfest (others where available the closer you got to new ulm)

Sam Adam's and Anchor, August Schell and Pete's Wicked get honorable mentions.