Search results

Gnome, refractometer. It is not important which I believe, I would like to be getting near to 5.0 BRIX. I understand mashing at the high end of the range has an effect, perhaps I am looking for other yeast suggestions. I typically bottle after 6 days as the beer is clear and no bubbles are visible.

A typical 3.8% SMASH beer for me starts at 11.2 BRIX and is bottled at 6.5 BRIX - I use Safale 04 yeast - have tried Safale 05 but it takes twice the time to ferment and does not clear very well. Any suggestions ? II mash at 68 - 70 deg C.

I use ten gold sovereigns....

"""Warm liquid is more inclined to absorb oxygen and therefore, it is recommended that when wort is over 80ºF, splashing be avoided. During and directly after the boil splashing is not much of a concern, as oxygen can’t really dissolve into liquid that hot""" I don't think this makes sense-...

I think sound might work = detected through a phone app == but I skim off the brown sludge pre-boil anyway "so the Ayes have it". UK joke.

1000 gm grain and cereals, 200 gm levain, 750 gm water, 26 gm salt

not forgetting my costs are 25p a pint, cheapest decent bottled beer I can buy is £1.50 per 500 ml

I buy some commercial beers eg Oakham Citra, Dark Star APA, for a change, and to make sure mine are equal or better. My local microbrewery is Pot Belly, their Pigs do Fly is superb. In general, I think USA home brewers are more into equipment than us yokels in UK...Brewing a SMASH with Pacific...

Segallis - I boil for 1 hour. In that hour I weigh out hops, make a cup of coffee, maybe make a couple of phone calls, start washing up, and once every 10 minutes check the boil, and tweak the voltage controller as necessary.. You are obviously very knowledgeable, and so know that mains voltage...

I use an electronic voltage controller, first for the mash at 66 deg c then to control the boil, works really well, keep it simple..............

Money. Extract is a lot cheaper to try before dumping a few hundred in AG equipment. ATLBEER I purchased two Burco boilers 25 years ago. A large BIAB bag 5 years ago cost £13. So the money side is not worth worrying about, considering the savings over shop bought beers.

my "secondaries" are 2 litre bottles. Easy to compare them with 750 ml secondaries. Ferment 5 - 6 days, bottle via jug and funnel. The bottling releases CO2 so the bottle is flushed out prior to capping. works for me.

add malt extract or dried malt extract one kilo per brew - for more body and more strength...........

I jug out of the fermenter and pour into bottles using a funnel. I THINK this releases CO2 from the beer which flushes out the air and the 1 inch headspace above the beer is all CO2 I THINK....

I BIAB but do not worry. I get strike water to 73 deg C then add 11.25 lb grains slowly with stirring to avoid dough balls. Temp is then typically 67 deg C. Over about 10 minutes I heat up to 70 deg C and at the end of the 75 minute mash temp is 67 to 67.5 deg C. I run off the liquid into the...

75 plus - I mash in the garage, transfer ( with jugs) to outside 30 litre boiler, at end I jug into 2 stainless steel pans ( 13 litre and 9 litre ) with lids for fermentation.

no blogs or magazines this forum and home brew forum and Aussie home brew forum

I use around 75% of the sludge in the FV to start the next brew - usually within two or three days. I "start" it with bottles water, a tip of vitamin C and nutrient and 2 teaspoons of grewing sugar. After a maximum of three re-uses I start again with a sachet of dried yeast. For my current brew...

I started this thread to get thoughts on the principle. Sadly a lot of responses went straight into detail, eg "Say we have an OG of 1.050 and a FG of 1.010 then the beer will be around 3.8% (for the purposes of this discussion)" and somebody comes up with "1.050 to 1.010 = 5.25% ABV " Anyways...

Pkrd - I was not trying to be precise "for the purposes of this discussion". I wanted the principle to be duscussed. 1.050 minus 1 is 0.050 - that is nowhere near the abv. ESbrewer - I am asking if, knowing the refractometer and hydrometer final readings, can I just read off the abv in a home...