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on opening, pour 80% into a large jug, the rest into your glass. even if it is cloudy in the glass, drink it...

Gilbert - thank you. I do not dry hop as when I tried I got a cloudy brew - I want a clear beer....

full mash every brew 68 -69 deg C pale bitter - I use variously citra, mosaic, pacific jade, summit, eldorado......

RM - I get enough bittering from citra whole hops boiled for 10 minutes - that is why current brew was just 7 minutes.

Gilbert - thanks - I tasted some of the brown sludge years ago, it was extremely bitter, so I always remove it. My beers are too bitter with too little aroma anyway so I don't want more bitterness. Always experimenting. My last brew was boiled without hops for 13 minutes, then I added 100 gm...

It was Proper Job yeast, harvested from a commercial bottle.

thanks RM - I chilled in about 20 minutes and pitched the same amount of yeast then. After 18 hours it is a powerful fermentation, will skim it in a few hours as lots of brown sludge on top.

thanks hotbeer - the dead yeasties will feed the live yeasties I am hoping.........

I added the yeast BEFORE cooling the wort - it was 40 deg C - I cooled to 21 deg C then added another sachet - fingers crossed..........

thanks Larry. I am 76 and have never heard of .ods or Libre - but I was a metallurgist now I am a brewer so I will go and have a search around.

Neither of the download links open for me as I can only use .xls files - any chance of saving as .xls and putting a link on here, please ?

I assume that even new dried yeast has "some" bacteria in it, and there will be more (but not enough to cause problems) after the first fermentation. Plus there will be some yeast mutations. Commercially, I understand "perfect" yeast cells are selected and multiplied up. I think 3 uses will be...

How many times is "safe" - I re-use twice then start over. At present I am using yeast grown from St Austell Proper job so my first use is really second use. By the way, I have confirmed that this is the yeast used for fermentation. I do not have kit to check the yeast. I put aside 10 bottles...

Cire - thanks a lot -------Alexkay I only have AMS which is sulphuric and hydrochloric , I was thinking MgSO4 to add sulphate not Mg - bed time in UK

Hello all, I have looked at several water treatment spreadsheets and either cannot understand them of get them to recommend water treatment. I intend to brew - next - a 4% hoppy beer using 9.75 lb of low colour pale malt and 1.5 lb of low colour crystal malt. Mash will be 90 minutes and is full...

both are inaccurate in opposite directions but by so little ignore it - worry about flu instead

I brew most of the time with 9 lb pale malt and 1.5 lb light crystal - 30 litres of water to start treated with half a campden tablet and 18 ml AMS. Wort runs clear pre-boil. Never ever used lactic or phosphoric.

I have a 10 gallon burco for the mash, and a 5.5 gallon burco for the boil, and I ferment in a 13 litre and 9 litre stainless steel pan with lid. Keep it simple works for me..........

Tomato blight here in UK, so picking, cooking and freezing...........

The cap HAS to be slightly distorted to pop off. A good lever capper would POSSIBLY be able to use the cap again. If the level of distortion is in the elastic range of the metal, it will spring back as new. I have never seen this happen however careful I was.