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My beer is better than 90% of beers available to me commercially - but I still go to the pub for the company and to support the pub. going to London next week so it will be £6 a pint, or more.

always weigh out your water and then add to your jug, then mark your jug with a gold or silver sharpie pen. Happy new year to all of you in USA, canada, cuba, etc.

for UK viewers kettle stone is scale

Sanitise bucket, jugs, spoons etc. Remove can label as instructions may be on back. Immerse can in hot water for 30 minutes. Put 2 gallons of hot water in bucket. Dry can. Open can and pour into bucket. Rinse can adding rinse water to bucket. Add malt syrup or powder if called for in the...

I am with Hawkwing. Air contains bacteria. I use Vit C and nutrient with dried SO4 yeast. Jar covered with clingfilm. Pitch in 1 to 2 hours.

2 litre PET water bottles ?

brew 8% and bottle with 50% water - saves electricity - but takes 50% more hops - umm cancel this thread.........

DuncB - But if the beer I drink contains Vit C, I will never get a cold......if ever you are in Kettering UK call in and sample one. Thanks.

thanks Mcmullan and Miraculix ( M & M ) When I have a cold I add 5 gm vit C to 450 ml water - I can certainly taste that. But 1 gm per litre is 11 times less and masked by malt and hop flavours. And I use 150 gm hops per 22 litres. So I will risk it. Defo report back.

I might try adding 22 gm vitamin C to 22 litres of beer just before bottling. It won't do any harm I am sure, I have been brewing the same style of beer for many years and so I will be able to detect any significant improvement. Watch this space.

yes - at end of fermentation - I always use a fresh sachet of yeast for each brew - thanks

I always use safale 04 yeast and make mainly 4% SMASH beers. Today's yeat sediment was granular and easily disturbed, last weeks was smooth and firm. Any ideas why this variation, many thanks.

Hello all, yesterday I brewed a 4% SMASH beer. 24 hours after yeast pitch it is fermenting like crazy and is at 27 deg C in a room that is at 23 deg C. I cannot control the temperature so I just hope it tastes ok. Other than not brewing June to September, any suggestions. I wondered about a...

I brew in large stainless steel saucepans, normal lids, no seal, no airlock, and I open them twice a day to skim off the brown sludge. Even when left a few days after fermentation has finished and beer is crystal clear, no problems...

72 deg c mash = lots of body and lower abv - stop worrying

all you need is a hydrometer measuring 1.000 to 1.060, take a reading pre yeast addition, and another at the end of fermentation. Typical would be 1.045 and 1.008 table on the web to convert that to abv

dmtaylor - say your beer has finished fermenting and your hydrometer reading is 1.010 - the residual "sugars" are lifting the hydrometer, and the say 4% alcohol, having a density less than 1.000 is sinking the hydrometer. But as I said in my post too small an effect to worry about. I just don't...

use a refractometer for FG, yes it is slightly inaccurate BUT a hydrometer is slightly inaccurate in the opposite direction. So ....... if refractometer says FG is 1.009 and hyrometer = 1.006 then the true deadly accurate reading is 1.0075 - I have never been able to detect any consequences of...

at the end of mash BIAB I open the tap and drain out the wort (pronounced wert) into a 4 litre jug which I tip into the boiler. Power on max and fetch the next 4 litres. Flow obviously slows to a mere dribble, if I am short on brew length I sparge with hot water - this does not happen often -

In over 50 years of brewing I have never used a secondary - fermenting 4 to 6 days then bottling. That does not mean that I am telling people secondarys are a waste of time.