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You can get diastic amber malt - that isn’t massively dissimilar to brown malt. That would be the best way to go if you wanted to make a historic beer with the base malt being dark.

I make wine because I wanted to see if I could make something at least as drinkable as an average £10 bottle. In my part of the world, there are many fruits growing wild (blackberry, elderberry, damson, apples, pears) so the ingredients come free. It would be rude not to try making wine. I...

If you whirlpool without cooling, the effect would not be dissimilar to a hop stand. I understand that more hops equal more bitterness, that’s a basic concept. 100g+ at the end of the boil is wasteful imo. However, if a 5 minute boil is all someone can manage (as per OP) then I suppose it’s...

How difficult is it to obtain PAA in the US? I use this for sanitising everything in my brewery process.

How much bitterness do you think you’re getting from hopstand? I’ve mocked up a recipe in Brewers Friend and I’m only getting 5 IBU from 25g of Styrian Goldings at flameout (5.5% AA, 7% utilisation).

Good call using FWH - with such a short boil this will help you get reasonable bitterness.

I love the process and obviously the satisfaction of drinking a great beer that I’ve made myself. The savings over buying bottled beer don’t harm either. Saving time on brewing isn’t an issue if I’m doing an AG brew - I accept its going to take 6-8 hours. I can relax and enjoy things. I have...

If anything it will be slightly fruitier in the esters.

Have you tried your beer yet? I did this too on my last beer (two weeks or so ago). I’ve tried an early botttled sample and it’s certainly got plenty of nose.

Look up hop bio-transformation... https://www.brewersjournal.info/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Biotransformation.pdf You will tend to get fruity esters developing that you would not get any other way. Try doing this on day 1-2, then dry hop on day 4-5.

No boil is another ball game altogether. I’ve done a no-boil brew and it was nice. I’d like to do another at some stage and see if I can get it clear using brausol. I crash cooled the last one I did and it was still very murky (obviously no hot break or kettle finings).

You’re right, you can get clear beer from wort that is not clear. The aim (certainly in the breweries I’ve worked at) is to ensure you have the clearest wort possible at each stage. This makes it easier to achieve clear beer.

The yeast used in primary fermentation does not always make the best yeast to use for bottling purposes. If it’s a powdery type of yeast that is easily disturbed, you’re going to get cloudy beer. A bottling yeast (or something like Nottigham) will stay fixed to the bottom of the bottle. I...

I use Brewers Friend and find that I get less bitterness than I expect if I brew to style using the range on their preset styles. It’s all about knowing your setup and making adjustments to your own taste. For instance, on a 1.045 OG bitter, with FG of 1.010 I will go for 40 IBUs in Brewers...

What I’ve seen in this (and other threads) is that BIAB guys simplify the difference with 3-vessel systems as either separating the wort from the grain, or the grain from the wort. The problem with that oversimplification is that the two processes do not give the same results going into the boil...

I’d rather see the likes of WL and WY invest in dried strains so viability is much less of an issue.

I can’t give much advice on BIAB as I’ve only done it a few times. However, regarding clarity, I’ve been using Brausol Special finings - gets rid of proteins and yeast in suspension, and therefore chill haze too. Can’t recommend it enough. I use 8ml per 20L brew a day or two before bottling...

Ahh, nice info Whatever it is, I like it and it made a good Kölsch Also explains why it worked well making a pale ale.

Here is the water profile I used for my Kölsch. I went a bit higher on calcium, for a variety of reasons relating to benefits of calcium in brewing liquor.

Have you taken a gravity Reading? I’m assuming there is no krausen at all.