Search results

This is what I’d refer to as cold break. We chill via a plate chiller, do there is a decent amount of break material transferred to FV. This is the cold break settled out in a trial jar after taking a sample

Saf-04 was the house strain at the first brewery I worked at. It is very much an oddity not to get any krausen.

Getting clear wort to the FV isn’t difficult. My boil kettle has a bazooka filter and I just run the wort off slowly (ball valve around half open); after having let the wort settle for around half an hour. To be fair, I’ve run off wort that isn’t clear and the beer has been great. Some cold...

Strange not to get any krausen, especially with Saf-04.

I bottle all my beer as I currently have no room for a dedicated fridge to store kegs. Bottling is a pain in the behind and I’ll be glad when I finally get a keg system set up.

No problem, you’re very welcome.

As above, I’d also query the yeast choice as it’s not bringing anything to the party. You’re making a DIPA, so a basic clean yeast like Saf-05 would be fine imo. Or if you want a bit character from the yeast, try Saf-04 at the warmer end of the spectrum. As for mash temp, 65C all the way for...

With such a big beer I’d add around 10-15% sugar to keep the body from being too thick. I’d also double the amount of calcium as it’s quite a big beer. It will help with all stages of the process. Depending on how ‘minerally’ you like it, I’d go with at least 100 chloride and 150 sulphates. If...

The drop to 10C is done when SG is around 2 points from FG. This is to encourage the yeast to drop and thus stop fermentation. There is no specific diacetyl rest where we raise the temperature. The yeast cleans up any ‘green’ flavours during the conditioning period. I’d be surprised if they...

Sounds familiar

At work (a North Yorkshire brewery) we skim (top crop) when we’re about to put the beer on chill to drop the yeast out and stop fermentation (approx day 4-5). The beer then gets transferred to CT before being racked to casks.

I only had Saf-05 or Nottingham, so I went with Safale. I will work well in the style.

Here’s a Kölsch I had last summer. Was very nice....

We used it as our house strain at the first brewery I worked at. I like it as it does what it says on the tin; so to speak. It’s an easy ‘British’ ale yeast to use, apparently close/derived from Whitbred strain.

After getting my grains out of storage, I found that my half bag of Maris Otter had somehow got damp/wet. There was black mould inside the bag and clumps of damp grain. Obviously this was unusable. This put my plan to brew this weekend into doubt. Plan B... see if I can cobble together an IPA...

Vienna is certainly not a traditional English Bitter malt, nor one that I can imagine anyone using now either. However, it’s just a slightly darker base malt, so I can’t see any harm in trying it - especially at lower amounts. I’d imagine it could be quite nice, much like adding some Amber...

If you want marmalade, try First Gold instead of (or mixed with) Goldings.

Lmao, ahh ok Does honey really take that long to ferment out? It’s always gone off like s rocket when I’ve done Braggot.

I’ve got it selected for Tinseth.

Most beers only take 4-5 days to ferment down as much as they ever will. 6 weeks is crazy for primary fermentation. Have you taken gravity readings to see what your FG is?