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There should be a 30amp breaker behind the dryer receptacle so no issue there, no need for 30a gfci or another breaker, the 50a gfci in the spa panel is fine. Just know your obviously building a 30a system, not a 50a.

I think it takes about 1.5x more gas to carbonate a corny than it does to serve it. Or in other words if you're naturally carbonating your theoretically exposing your brew to 60% less (trace) oxygen than if you were force carbing... I think...

Hey it all makes good beer. Just different design considerations.

Easy enough when you know there is a problem. The point is that if there is a failure a switch on the 120v line will still behave as expected. For example a failed ssr won't be the cause of a dry fire, where as with the configuration you're suggesting you could plug in the controller and have...

But the outlet switch would still be effective.

The problem with that is if he SSR fails on the on state you could have the signal switch turned off but the element circuit would still be hot and not know it.

I feel like if you're going to list your products on a beer brewing website you should at least state their potential use cases for home brewers. How long does the battery last?

Affirmative. If you want the PID to have power when ever it's plugged into the wall you could modify the original schematic like so: now the switch cuts power to the SSR and element only. Whether or not this is advisable, idk. I personally would like to have a "master" switch to kill power...

Negative.

Nope. The process requires a pressure cooker. In a pressure cooker the boiling point of water can get up to 250F, while not underpressure only gets up to 212F. You need to get up to 250 to kill the bacteria that can create toxins that cause botulism and kill you.

For your consideration: https://store.brewpi.com/featured/weldless-whirlpool-kettle-inlet-kit-npt

I know I'm late to the party but... It might be a good idea to start with more flavorful styles, that way it's easier to cover up mild off flavors that might otherwise show up in more subtle brews.

That said as long as you're making beer call it what ever the hell you want! :mug:

That is your mash, or as you stated in the OP a partial mash. To sparge is to rinse your grain bed with water to extract sugars.

I like to cook. I never put a finished soup/stew/sauce/etc. into the serving dish before I've tasted a little bit to decide whether or not I need to add some finishing spices (to the whole batch). I can't believe I haven't approached homebrew in the same way, it seems like a no brainer!

This seems almost to obvious to ask but what about the boil?... 212F.

Your terminology is all over the place! No worries though. I gather you're just asking if one covers the boil kettle during the boil? When I first got into brewing the answer was absolutely not because it can lead to off flavors if you cover the pot. The thinking is that the boil evaporation...

You're probably going to want a control box of some sort to dial the heat down on your BK once you reach boiling, though still not strictly required. However you don't necessarily need a PID to do that. Either way no, BIAB/rims/herms/etc. aren't requirements in an "electricified" system.

So we're ganging up on Mel now? That how we rollin around hbt these days?

I take my carboys to the grocery store and fill them up at a water machine for something like $0.30 a gallon. You could buy 1 gallon jugs but that's more expensive. You can pick up your brewing salts at the home brew store or order them online.