Search results

If the FG didn't change, then the additional yeast did nothing to your beer. It will settle out and it will be as if you never pitched it.

Your yeast is on the bottom. Usually, it is on the top, but not always, as you're finding out. Must be a pretty flocculent strain, as it settled before the majority of the trub. Not a big deal, though. Store it as-is in the fridge until you're ready to make a fresh starter from it. Decant most...

Yeah, just don't cool it down with water after the 2nd heat cycle.

Yes, you need to use DAP to get you closer to the real thing. With cream of tartar, you're just making caramelized sugar and not getting the necessary maillard reaction.

Sorry, link added to the post.

Sugar #5 from the first post in this thread will get you in the ball park. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/20-lb-of-sugar-and-a-jar-of-yeast-nutrient.114837/ Compared to CSI's D-180, the homemade one is a bit less complex, but I like it better. I'd be surprised if choosing one over...

I've had mine for about 5 years and never cleaned the regulator or the vinyl tubing. I have once or twice cleaned the O2 stone by boiling in water for a few minutes, though.

It'll be fine.

Just store the yeast under it's own beer and it will be fine for quite some time. I've been doing it this way for nearly 6 years. I have revived yeast that was stored that way for over a year and most of the yeast I work with has been stored under beer for at least 6 months and I've not had any...

This does not seem to me to be a good idea, as it will still ferment at cold temps, just much slower. If storing is your goal, it's best to store yeast under the beer it fermented, whether that's yeast from a starter or harvested from the fermenter.

It'll be fine for a couple weeks, and probably quite a bit longer, actually.

I think you'd be fine either way. The choice of yeast is not likely to make or break this recipe.

Looks like a good start. Be sure to report back on your results. Also, I recently fermented a California Common with 2124 at ale temps and it turned out pretty nice, not overly estery at all.

Isn't Oscar/Felix the base recipe for their sour beers only? That was my understanding. 1554 is a pretty old recipe. It's been around long before Peter Bouchart started them down the road to sour beers, which would suggest to me that it predates Oscar and Felix. It began as an "Enchanted Black...

No, not with true conicals. I have a SS Brewtech Brewbucket and really like it. I went with that over a conical because it would fit in my ferm chamber, whereas a conical wouldn't.

Go with what BeerTarget is telling you. It's going to be more accurate, as long as you are using AA% for the actual hops you have. If strong bittering is not your thing, you could add the bittering charges later, much later actually, and end up with a nice brew that is big on hop flavor and...

I would continue with your original plan and see how it turns out.

I use my refractometer on brew day only. For that purpose, it's a great tool.

If we're talking only an early bittering charge for what is essentially a balanced brew, you can use pretty much anything. I'd go with Centennial because it's both versatile (good for bittering, flavor, and aroma) and high in AA% (so you don't need to use as much).

From what I understand, S-type air locks will not draw the liquid back into the fermenter if there is contraction due to temp drop the way a 3-piece will, so the fact that there is still liquid in the air lock is normal. With that said, it is certainly possible that the temp change prompted the...