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Bev-Seal tubing has a barrier liner on the ID to prevent plastic flavors from leaching into your beer, like you might get with normal PVC tubing. The downside to Bev-Seal is that it's a semi-rigid plastic tubing and it is difficult to fit it over the barbed fittings that we typically use for PVC...

I've got a 9.1 c.f. freezer, 7.5" collar with 4 kegs on the floor and one on the hump. 10 lb CO2 and 20 c.f. nitro tanks are inside, as well. John Guest fittings are for when you use Bev-Seal rigid lines, which I'm also running in my setup for the liquid side. In the picture below, I'm short a...

Yes, this is exactly the reason. I put mine in the center, though, and have no regrets.

I've been using this one for almost a year with no issues yet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OWVUJ0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Anytime you're working with fermentables contamination is possible. Whether your starter is contaminated or not is hard to say. My approach is to assume it's fine until something suggests to me it's not (smell, taste, or visual). One thing that would concern me is the density of your starter...

Sounds good. If it were an ale, I'd say you could just sprinkle the yeast on top of the wort, but since it's a lager, I'd definitely rehydrate before pitching. I'd also probably go with at least 2 packets of yeast. Are you dry hopping? If so, then I'd add them around the time you raise the...

Different material. Not as susceptical to taste and odor transfer as PVC.

WLP830 is not dry yeast, it is a liquid yeast, so I'd make a starter. How big of a starter will depend on your expected OG. Pitch and ferment around 50°-55°F.

Yep. My entire yeast management regimen goes like this... 1) Acquire fresh yeast by either purchasing a new commercial package or harvesting from a bottle of beer. 2) Make an initial starter from yeast acquired in step 1. Save 30-50B cells along with the starter "beer" to a sanitized 8 oz or 1...

3/16" ID x 5/16" OD flexible tubing is your typical run of the mill PVC tubing, which works, but has a tendency to impart plastic flavors in the beer if it is allowed to sit for an extended amount of time. For this reason, I wouldn't use it for the liquid line, though it's fine for the gas line...

I don't know the answer to your question, but check out ritebew.com. Their shipping rates on smaller parts are typically better than what the usual suspects charge. I just added a handful of faucet O-rings to my cart and USPS 1st class mail was only $2.43.

I bought mine here... http://www.discountcoffeeequipment.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=6439&zenid=123d5d8d69aed08613ac3018edea6dcb This looks to be another option... https://www.webstaurantstore.com/curtis-dt-24-stainless-steel-24-drip-tray/945DT24.html

I work for a sheet metal fab shop, so I had this front piece laser cut out of 18 GA polished 304 and got one of our welders to weld the drip tray to it.

IMO, washing is a waste of time. I have no idea why anybody bothers to do it, TBH. Collect fermenter slurry and direct-pitch it into the next brew and save a little yeast from your starters to build fresh starters later. Between these two options, you should have no problems getting the yeast...

Perfectly fine to decant right out of the fridge.

No, it's fine. Let it warm up a bit, decant most of the starter "beer," and pitch it.

I used one for about a year until it died. I just stood it up against the back wall of the freezer.

Yes, and he can also sub in some simple sugar for the base malt and that will result in a lower FG.

No issues

How far off was the FG? Measured with a hydrometer?