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The yeast is going to work faster at the higher temp, so the the one on the left is pretty much done and well onto clearing, which is why it is darker. The one on the right is still fermenting, so lots of stuff in suspension giving the cloudy appearance and lighter color. Edit to add... I just...

I would go to the high side and pitch at least 8 oz, maybe even 12. An OG that high is going to stress the yeast, so more is definitely better in this case. Pitching an entire pint would be fine, too.

I think a dry yeast would work better here. Open each bottle and add a little T-58 and re-cap. T-58 is often used for re-yeasting high grav brews. Since it's only carbonating, it won't develop any Belgian characteristics.

Yes Usually takes me 3 cycles to do a batch. Ends up taking most of the day between heating/cooling of the cycles.

4-5 gallons

Really depends on your brewhouse efficiency, but you should be able to fill 12 qt jars and 12 pint jars, more or less.

I don't have the counting equipment, so I estimate. I go with 1-1.5B cells per ml. If the batch is more hop heavy, I'll use the low end, otherwise I use the high end. You will be pretty safe using those values.

4" O.C.

Recipe added to post #8 above.

Yeah, that makes sense. I bought a 55 lb sack of Weyermann Beechwood Rauchmalt I'm currently working through. Will definitely try smoking my own at some point.

I have a recipe I can post later this evening when I get home. It's close to the Urbock, since that's what I was going for, but the real deal is smokier, likely due to the fact, as mentioned above, Schlenkerla smokes all the malt in the recipe, whereas with mine, only the Weyermann Rauchmalt is...

I carb on CO2 and then move it to beer gas.

Yes, you can put it back in. You might notice some degradation in flavor, but I doubt it. Only one way to find out.

Once you input your final volume and OG into the recipe in BeerSmith, there's a field that will calculate your actual brewhouse efficiency. You can use this info to set your estimated efficiency moving forward and the recipe will adjust the expected OG accordingly. You'll find that the higher...

You should be okay with RO.

60 minute mash will do at that temp. Mash both grains together. Typical boil is 60 minutes, but could be longer. Just go with 60. Hops go in when wort gets up to boil and the 60 minute clock starts. What are you using for water? Hefeweizens are typically brewed with soft water.

The recipe is fine. I wouldn't changa a thing. Mash on the higher end of the range, around 158 and ferment 60-62F.

Like SoCal-Doug, I also don't pay much attention to SG as it relates to the D-rest. I will generally start raising the temp about 5 days into fermentation, hold it in the low to mid 60's for a few days and then cold crash once I've taken a gravity reading to verify it's at the expected FG. My...

I usually do two rounds of dry hops with my IPAs: the first in the fermenter and the second in the keg. The keg addition goes in at transfer after I've cold crashed the fermenter and they remain in the keg until the beer is gone and it's time to clean the keg. I'm usually pretty happy with how...

Plan accordingly means don't do something that is going to suck back sanitizer into your fermenter. So, yes, no Starsan in the airlock. Also, don't rig a blow off into a container of Starsan. You can use foil over a dry air lock as suggested above or take a paper towel, dunk it in sanitizer...