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The second chiller I made (after having this problem) I used enough tubing to go above the keggle and turned outwards before the hose connections, problem solved.

Pretty high temperature for a lager, this is probably why your ferment was quick. Diacetyl rest should be about 10 degrees higher than ferment temperature and when you are appx. 75% of terminal gravity, not sure it will help in this case but it's worth a try, you will probably need to lager for...

Yeast mutate naturally due to changes in their environment (wort in this case), for instance continued use for high alpha, high alcohol beer will eventually select the most compatible yeast to ferment such wort and those yeasts may mutate in some form. Although I wouldn't expect much change...

They'll be fine, put them in the fridge.

Never have allowed that to happen, but it will without a blowoff.

Without seeing or reading the entire podcast its hard to say, maybe he was talking about mutation of the yeast? If you make a starter from yeast that has been mutated, you will get mutated yeast. Did he state that the bittering compounds prevent the yeast from multiplying or inhibit them in...

Hard to say without an OG, did the wort taste sweet?

6 row has more protein than 2 row as well.

Ain't nothing wrong with that.

I usually throw in 2 or 3 hundred extra gallons in these threads whether I've brewed them or not but it's become tiring, I'm refraining this year so maybe your count will be accurate.

This is called fortifying and sometimes it works out. Why not just mix them in your gut though?

Beer hasnt been brewed until its aged sufficiently in the bottle or keg. Last year I bottled significantly more than I made, for this reason I submit that all of these "how many gallons" threads are pointless and/or unsound.

Beer hasnt been brewed until its aged sufficiently in the bottle or keg. Last year I bottled significantly more than I made, for this reason I submit that all of these "how many gallons" threads are pointless and/or unsound.

Beer hasnt been brewed until its aged sufficiently in the bottle or keg. Last year I bottled significantly more than I made, for this reason I submit that all of these "how many gallons" threads are pointless and/or unsound.

It's only been 3 days, I wouldn't even check an IR until 3 weeks, also mash at 160? and 1lb of C60 probably wont let it get much lower.

It depends what beer you are brewing, I'd groathead and use it in the mash though, amount depends on the recipe.:mug: Edit: Use it as you would a gnoat or hoat, straight substitution:)

Its hard to control temperature in that volume of fermenting beer, I'd try the method you listed. I'd wager that whatever you use will be running constantly, even glycol coolers on large fermentors run constantly. Also, one degree won't make any difference at all, why dont you just use the...

You are correct sir.;) Edit: I do not know the OP so I can form no opinion on how complicated his first beer may or may not be.

It took me a little while to glean a sociably acceptable response to this, not sure I have it yet but here goes: You can hope in one hand and pour beer in the other and see which one fills up first, heheh. Either way it's a waste of time and effort as well as beer. Or try this response...

Hmmmmm, it is true that most typical low gravity brews do not need a secondary, the main reason I don't use a secondary on these beers is NOT the very slight possibility of oxygenation or infection. Secondary is simply not needed for the "typical" brew to clear AND the beer is typically better...