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Well I don't know what you are trying to accomplish with the 36 hours. I do know that you do not want to aerate fermented/fermenting wort due to off flavors, etc, a better thing to do might be adding new wort that is well aerated when you rack and add the pilsen yeast, then proceed.

This depends on alot of things, but the airlock has nothing to do with fermentation. Gravity readings are the only way to determine if your brew is done with the attenuation phase of fermentation.

Kinda depends on how big a stout it is but for an average gravity stout maybe try 2 weeks in fermentor after fg is reached, no need for secondary, 3 weeks in bottles at room temperature, 2 days in fridge, then drink up.

Hard to speculate without a picture, sounds like foam and hop residue, what is the gravity?

I wouldn't worry about lack of kreusen, fermentations can be different from one time to the next and are influenced by factors beyond our control, such as: moon phase, barometric pressure, external vibrations, static electricity, etc, etc. That being said, you are at the very top of OG for...

Either would be a fine yeast for the IIPA, the 1056 actually has higher alcohol telerance (11%) but attenuation and temp range are close to the same, you may get a brighter clearer beer with 1272. It kinda depends on if you like the profile of 1056 or if you want to try something else.

You can make a starter with the two vials then you only need one starter of appx 2.3 liters, if you use one vial, you will probably have to step it up with a second feeding. This is also the best way to verify viability of your yeast friends, personally I don't worry about yeast in cold temps, I...

I see, personally I would forget about this for a while and check the gravity in 3 weeks. Proceed as normal from for a lager. . . . . or steam beer.

Every brew is different, sometimes krausen, sometimes not, I wouldn't expect much krausen at that temperature with that yeast. Use your hydrometer.

Wyeast 2112 is not recomended for cold fermentation, warm it up, 58-68F. Its used alot for California Commons (Steam beer), Otherwise you can check the gravity to see if its fermenting.

I see nothing in your process that would cause tannins flavors/bitterness, were there any herb/spice additions? Did you vorlauf?

Trial and error, or success, I would certainly try the WLP036 alone first, it will do 11% with maltose, who knows since you have some honey in there it could be perfect.

Well, I dont know if you aren't boiling it, any suggestion I make would be pure speculation.

It might, you can try swirling them. You are right that your mistake was not checking the gravity before crashing. Have you calibrated yout hydrometer lately?

Should be fine, drag your syphon across the bottom to pick up some yeast when you transfer the beer for the "carbonating" phase.

Your timeline is way too fast for any lager beer, what was your OG? You can warm them up again to try and finish fermentation during another rest (however your yeasts are dormant), then lager.

You have calibrated your hydrometer?

The Dusseldorf alt yeasts are: WLP036 and Wyeast 1007, Ferment at 55F - 67F for Alt.

Good on you sir!

You should have a square glass receptacle(s) to put your fluid to be measured inside, that slips in the viewer on one side, the glass plates of different lovibond slip in the other side for side by side comparison, etc. You can see the square receptacles in the picture here...