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Ouch! I doubt spilling 85% of your wort on the floor is the critical parameter in your process... ;) But you may be onto something making it up with DME! :D Would be interesting to make a batch with each and compare them. Skip the spilling part, though.

I guess you could recover and store that citric acid solution for a future use inside containers that are inert to acids.

I mentioned that because of the reduced heat transfer between the inside and outside of the tubing. This is due to differences in surface areas on the inside of the tube vs. the outside. This is more pronounced at smaller tube diameters. IOW, smaller tube diameters have a relatively much...

6 and 8 mm are definitely too thin of a bore for 20-40 liter batches. If you're aiming for 40-80 liter batches in the near future I'd go 1/2" (12 mm) ID. A double coil such as the Jaded Hydra can work to your advantage. When constructing one, keep your kettle diameter and fill height (wort...

With homebrew type/size plate chillers, clogging needs to be avoided like the plague. On those relatively small homebrew chillers, the channels between the plates are very narrow and "convoluted" (ridges and such, not smooth) and bound to clog when sending hop pulp and such through. So, you'll...

Not necessarily, the manufacturer may package a mix from different batches. I also noticed (in the picture) the yeast granules are rod-shaped, not round pellets.

Just beware what you're in for with a chest freezer. Volume, space layout inside (they all have a hump!), and maximum inside height are important parameters for suitability. You need to be strong enough to lift filled and heavy fermenters in and out of it. It can also be a bit of a hassle as...

Of course you didn't think of it at the time, but Lactose is the cure to all those ailments. And if it doesn't on first or second try, the solution is simple: add more Lactose! Also, a very catchy name helps the beer drinker to focus on what they're drinking. And what it's supposed to taste...

You can't carbonate room temp beer. But you can keep an oxebar keg in the fridge, and force/burst carbonate and dispense it when the beer is cold.

Ah, with a Fermzilla the beer needs to be dispensed out the top, so a little pressure may be needed to push it out. Yeah, that should work. And clamps to prevent surprise beer showers, yes! I fill the occasional bottles and growlers with carbonated beer from kegs with counter pressure using a...

What @mac_1103 says.^ And you won't need a bottling gun or gas, just priming sugar and depending on temps, 2-4 weeks of bottle conditioning to get them carbonated.

That's a nice setup! Sorry to see you're getting out of the hobby. :( Could you please add an asking price for the things you're selling? It's in our Classifieds Rules: 5. All merchandise posted for sale must have a listed price. List only items you have for sale. [...] You can negotiate...

Heating 2 or 3 large kitchen pots on the stove at the same time will significantly speed up getting that 2nd batch going. With some keen timing that water can be ready for mashing your 2nd batch as soon as the wort from the 1st batch has chilled and transferred to the fermenter. Hint: If you...

Where do you brew? Do you have easy access to a 240V supply, such as an electric dryer or car charger outlet? If you only brew 10 gallon batches occasionally, instead of buying a whole new AIO brew machine, you can heat water or even boil wort using a "simpler" heating source, such as an...

Make sure to read the posts and understand the perimeters of the method(s) addressed in that thread.^ That said, also consider brewing 2 batches of the original size back to back, instead. You'd only have one setup and cleaning to do. ;)

2.5-3x batch size would be for full volume mashes, to hold all the water/wort as well as all the grist at the same time. Especially when brewing higher gravities, say 1.090 OG and up, the 3x batch sized kettle will come in handy. If you do a dunk or pour-over sparge using a separate vessel...

Mind, you're not pulling 1/3 of the total mash volume (grist and wort). You're only pulling 1/3 of the thicker part of the mash, being mostly the grist with some wort, using a strainer, a sieve, or colander. Most of the liquid (the wort) stays in the mash tun, converting. That thicker part...

That would work as long as the drawn-off wort doesn't get too hot, denaturing enzymes that are still needed for the next mash step(s). Same is true when heating the mash directly, in the kettle.

... and forego the mashout step. Or if he insists, perform the mashout by heating the mash in the kettle. Then return it to the mash tun for lautering and sparging.

Wood is a poor thermal insulator. Insulating the inside of the box with 1-2" of rigid insulation, could make all the difference. Make sure every square inch is clad with the foam, no voids. I've seen fermentation chambers built from just 2" rigid foam, with a refrigerator or a window-type AC...