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That's likely the issue the OP is experiencing, incorrect use of the measured data. Brewers Friend has such a calculator and it's fairly accurate: https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/ Use both parts I and II. The problem with small batches is that a hydrometer sample takes a...

If that's worst you're forgetting during brew day, you doing very well!

BTW, you're not boiling directly in a (glass) flask, are you? Instead, use a nice clean kitchen pot, onto which you can put a well fitting lid after the boil.

If you're aiming for a 1.5-1.8 liter starter with a gravity of 1.037, you may end up evaporating 1-3 oz, depending how long it takes to reach boiling point, how hard or long you boil, or how long it takes to chill down. By the time the wort has cooled you may end up with a gravity of...

Very good instructions! ^ Let me add: After those 2-3 weeks, it's recommended to take 2 gravity samples, 3 days apart. Only if they match and are close to the expected final gravity (FG), it's usually safe to bottle. Otherwise, let them be in a warmish place for another week, and take readings...

How long are you planning to "age" it? To let it age, are you going to rack it into a smaller fermenter, to get it off the yeast/trub cake, while also reducing the headspace significantly (to around 1 inch under the bung)?

Oh yeah! Brewersfriend has (brewing) calculators for about everything brewing/fermenting. Psst... they're affiliated with HBT... (We have a direct link to them in the top bar: BREWING SOFTWARE) ;) Well let's hope you won't have to wait that long. I could not find any information to the yeast...

You mean: substitute DME for LME? ;) ;) Yes, easily: Conversion factor 0.8 DME : 1.0 LME (by weight, of course). Keep the DME dry, that's very important, it's hygroscopic... seal that bag well or even double bag. Ziplock works well. Store cool and dry. Best not to refrigerate or freeze, for...

That's doing a top-up (with plain water). Have you measured your mash efficiency? Instead of adding the heated water to merely top up the kettle with wort, I would implement a dunk/batch sparge right there. Add that dripped out bag to the heated (but not boiling) water. Maybe use a large stock...

1 pack of yeast should be enough for a 5 gallon of 1.050-ish OG batch of beer, using 1/2 a pack for half the batch. That is, as long the OP can measure that out without contaminating it. If not sure about that, yeah, get a 2nd pack with it.

How do you determine ABV? How and when do you measure gravity?

Good idea! When will it arrive? What are your plans for a chiller, to bring 5.5 gallons of (near) boiling wort reasonably quickly to fermentation temps (~55-65°F)?

I sent you a convo.

[ADDED] The company (https://mybrewsupply.com) and their brew kits look alright. 1 package of a (somewhat) style-appropriate (dry) yeast is included in the kits. The hops used in the kits seem OK but could use some exchanges or even additions. For example, an American IPA with 3 oz of Columbus...

Does anyone have any experience using this line of all-grain kits? Age and storage conditions being major detriments to milled grain, hops, and (dry) yeast.

Isn't there a safety valve (PRV) or rupture disc built into those plastic kegs that prevents reaching anywhere near critical pressure? Or did these kegs explode before the PRV pressure was reached, due to damages to the (plastic) skin/structure? That seems much too likely to happen.

Not without taking a huge hit on gravity. With all-grain brewing, you'd really need to use all the water between the mash and sparge. You could probably brew twice, half the batch size for each turn. That way you can actually boil off the required amount too, and arrive at your intended OG...

There are a few factors involved, each contributing to the total mash efficiency, which is what counts. For example, full volume BIAB mashes have the reputation of having a very high efficiency, straight out of the bag so to speak, (without a sparge). But very fine milling (e.g., using a...

Both! 1.5 qt/lb is a very good mash ratio, that also allows for a decent sparge, upping your efficiency. In addition, the extended mash time (90 min vs. 60 min.) is also helpful, especially when your grist is milled rather coarsely, which is typical with kits and homebrew store mills. And...

Although it's handy to know, the (starting) gravity itself is not all that important, neither is the % of alcohol in the final product (you're not selling it and pay taxes accordingly). It's the kinds and the amounts of the ingredients you used that will determine how far down it will ferment...