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I just reread the OP: My emphasis^ The outside of the brew bucket fermenter had some mold! Well, I'm quite sure it had other nasties clinging to it too, especially the bottom. ;) We can all relax now. The mold being on the outside, once cleaned and disinfected that could not even potentially...

I doubt the plastic used in buckets is porous enough to harbor mold or its spores. A good scrub with a detergent, followed by a rinse and sanitizer treatment should take care of that. But for all security, as @lumpher said, Clorox (bleach in general) will kill any potential mold. So does UV...

That,^ what @Broken Crow said! I agree with using EVA barrier lines for gas and beer. Since the trailer isn't air conditioned, it wouldn't hurt putting some neoprene insulation tubing around the beer lines from keg to faucet connector, too. Your trailer is very nice, and being completely...

That makes much sense, saving a) lots of CO2, while b) freeing up the regulator for the alternate pressure. However, there needs to be a source for 12V then. Those trailers don't come with that, unless they have an electric hookup on site (and a transformer/rectifier), or bring along a large...

There's much proprietary stuff out there, so you'd have to buy the exact replacement parts for that brand's system. Usually at steep pricing too. Some parts may look very similar, but may not quite fit. Another vote for Russ, @Buckeye_Hydro.

Really sad to read this. The best method is to make a big starter, then freeze many 3 ml vials for years (or decades) to come.

I'm not the seller... Correction: UPS runs $28 for a 15# package 15"x15"x15", cheapest way. Size matters!

It depends on the (seasonal) temperatures in the area you're storing those kegs. Recommended "Cellar temps" for beer are typically around 50-55°F. Temps in garages usually vary widely with the seasons, also heavily depending on location of course. Storing beer will be OK at 60-70°F, although...

I'm not sure what it is, but it certainly does not look like mold! Fermentations can be quite gnarly to look at, but as long as sanitation practices are solid, there is very little concern for anything harmful living in or on your beer.

I'm quite sure there are measurable differences in the end product among sparge procedures, from no sparge to squeeze sparge to fly sparge, from cold to warm to hot sparge, etc. In most homebrewing those differences can be subtle, going (mostly) undetected due to many other variations in the...

Let's hope the OP is set up to receive "heads-up" email notifications from our forums, and pays attention to them. @palchanesbrew: Last seen May 4, 2025

Unless I'm missing something, use one regulator for seltzer, the other for beer, each at their dedicated pressure setting.

Here are a few guidelines: 1. Boil-off (kettle) This can easily be 1 gallon per hour, and depends on your heat source and how high it's cranked up. A mere simmer (surface rippling) during an hour boil is usually enough. Grist containing a high percentage of Pilsen malt may need a 90 minute boil...

So??? Scoop 'em off with the pellicle and boil the (sour) wort for 5-10 minutes. Then proceed by moving the beer to a fermenter that can be well closed, wait until it's chilled enough, and pitch your clean yeast to finish your kettle sour.

Let me rephrase that: If you're making a "kettle sour" then yes you can briefly boil it to kill the lactobacillus and stop the souring process, then cool it down and pitch your clean yeast to finish it. You can also save some of your sour beer (such as a pint in a mason jar) to inoculate...

Sure, after you've transferred the beer into another vessel/fermenter to complete the fermentation, and add a regular (clean) yeast to that, give the pot a good rinse-out, followed by a good wash/scrub with hot soapy water and a dish brush or scour pad. Pot looks like stainless steel so it can...

I would not boil it, that would certainly ruin your sour beer! Don't skim the pellicle off either. It's a protective "skin" that prevents other (potentially really nasty) intruders from entering. If you have one of those (skinny) plastic sample pipets (with the integrated "squeeze bulb" on...

It can very well still be good. By pitching Lactobacillus you created a "sour ale," they're supposed to be sour and somewhat funky smelling/tasting. However, Lactobacillus does NOT commonly create a pellicle. It may very well be caused by other microbes that entered. What was the...

Whoa, be careful! Those are to be used only for air pressure (or vacuum): Do Not Use Any Medium Other Than Air. the Product is Limited to Air or Vacuum Environment. I don't know how they'd hold up with liquids (water). There are alternatives to Duotight push-to-connect ("ptc") connectors...

With "going farmhouse" do you mean you left your fermenter open? Doing that is asking for trouble, unless you have a way to keep spoiling organisms (acetobacter, lactobacillus, etc.) and fruit flies out of your beer.