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All good questions. -I'm using Wyeast smack packs (1028 and 1056). -12 oz and 22 oz brown bottles -All currently contain about the same level of carbonation in each bottle post-bottle conditioning -Cleaning very thoroughly with bleach/cold water, then very hot water rinse x2 -All beers in the...

I really appreciate that response. It definitely leaves me a little more puzzled, but it's comforting to know syphoning alone cannot remove enough yeast to blunt the carbonation process. This leads me to believe the bottles will carbonate in time, but just may take longer to get there. Thanks...

Thanks for the reply. It's funny because I've never had troubles before, which makes me believe it is either the weather or the fact I've been a little too careful with allowing sediment into the bottles and I'm always extremely careful to use the correct amount of priming sugar. :drunk:

I've been brewing for about two years and have made over 50 batches, but have recently ran into an issue I cannot solve on my own with deductive reasoning. For reasons I'm not completely sure, the bottle conditioning process I have been using for quite some time is not carbonating my beer...

Thanks Kai!

I would be very grateful to have more insight on this. I almost considered going back to the drawing board and using an extract to make my next stout, but slapped myself and realized that I am up to the challenge. Knowing what to add to the water would be very helpful.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll definitely look into the water calculators for mash pH. My smack pack was super inflated, so I don't have any reason to suspect my yeast were not ready to pitch or were unable to ferment.

Just out of curiosity, how long does the fermentation process generally take for your beers? With my IPAs, I see a vigorous fermentation as evidenced by the airlock. With the stouts, I don't see any activity in the airlock, though I checked tonight and found a gravity change. (OG=1.059, gravity...

Fair enough and good points. I still prefer my refractometer; it was well worth the money.

This actually sounds like a great idea. Why would you recommend removing the hydrometer? In what way would this create a problem?

This is what I am concerned with. Since I've been making beer for some time now and I only have issues with stouts, I have a feeling the pH may play a bigger contributing factor, keeping all other things constant. Would you recommend using pH strips before mashing and during the boil to pin...

I've been reading about this in Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide. Thank you so much for your input; I'll be careful of this in the future. I am concerned, though with vigorously incorporating air at 70F, since that's a prime temperature for any bacteria or yeast in the surrounding area to make a...

Good advice. I won't be too overly concerned quite yet.

Very good questions! This is pertinent information. 1. Mashing temps for first two stouts were 152-153F; one batch was a 60min mash the other a 90min. The mashing for the third was 153F for 60 min mash. Pitching temps for the first two batches were about 70F. By some unfathomable mistake, the...

Hey Scimmia, Thanks for your reply. It's difficult for me to believe the gravity could drop without even one bubble from the airlock, but I'll chalk this one up to inexperience. I will check the gravity as soon as I get home tonight. I've made three stout batches, the first two with Wyeast...

Hey Everyone, I'm not brand new to the site, but just created an account today to participate in learning more about beer! I've been making all-grain batches for about a year now in Seattle and have never once had an issue with making IPAs or pales. For some reason, though, every time I...