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it's possible. hard to know without knowing how much grain you're putting in. there are lots of peeps that will take copper wire, make it into a spiral and insert that into the braided hose. Seems to work for them!

you should be fine. any co2 production would have pushed any air out that was trying to get in.

i'd also vote oxidization causing the darkening. i've never brewed extract, but i was under the impression that they typically end up darker than their "commercial" equivalents?

15 degree's should be fine for those yeasts, and if not, actually on the low end. for the thermal transfer to take place between your swamp bath water temp and your actual beer temp i wouldnt imagine it would take very long to level out with only 2 gal batch. i think you may need to look...

i'm wondering with 5gal batches (depending on your pot - so only you will know this answer) if the 50' stainless would protrude out of your wort volume?

i love seeing those submerged clouds!

whats the cost work out to in CAD ?

i'll keg, but then when i have a new beer ready to put on tap i'll bottle up the rest. kinda best of both worlds! when you want to go somewhere and bring beer...bottle/growler up what you need and go. it's cold, carbonated and ready at all times. i initially ordered a single corny kegging...

do you mean smell during fermentation?...or...does your beer now taste like sulfur? i've had sulfer smell during kolsch ferm, but not in my actual beer

i'm not sure why they would suggest such a low mash for such a big heavy beer. i imagine that even with a high attenuating yeast like 80% will only bring it down to 1.018 or so. i guess the question is what is the difference in a beer that would have residual unfermentable sugars from a high...

no experience with sanke kegs, but have had a similar issue with corney's. it's always ended up being something settled out that gets sucked up the dip tube, and clocks the valve/poppet. maybe check into that? if there's a lot of foam, it's pretty clear there is carbonation in your beer and...

i strongly recommend you read through john palmer's How To Brew book - it's an excellent primer to anyone undertaking the art of homebrewing! great first place to start. As for diacetyl, and acetaldehyde they can be described as "buttery" and "green apple" respectively. check out the common...

no worries at all! :)

I just brewed my first Lagers a few weeks back - a Helles along with a schwarzbier. I used brulosophers quick lager method, and after 2 weeks they taste excellent and going to start cold crashing tomorrow!

ok, i'm going to assume you mean London, England...not London in Canada...if that's the case, sorry i cannot help!

which london?

Brewer's Friend has an excellent mobile app with a bunch of calculators in it. ABV calc, hydrometer temp adjust, priming sugar calc, brewhouse efficiency...the list goes on. Very handy to have through the entire beer making process!

i guess it comes down to personal preference. i personally wouldn't brew an ipa as high as 156 either, but it will still make an IPA... Drink it, learn from it, adjust it next time, and enjoy a better version!

the 76 temp definitely did not kill off your yeast. peruse the forums and you'll see a million threads about people getting banana flavoured ales because their fermentation hit mid/high 80's. they're still alive and will make beer...just not really good beer :) I would bet the environment...

FWIW - when i first made my sours, i was also using glass carboys. I even purged with co2 prior to transferring, and hadn't removed the airlock for well over 6 months. they both had large pellicles. According to MtF, very little is truly known about pellicle formation, or even how oxygen...