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This is my first experience with this yeast and searching the web returned very little information about this specific yeast and also nothing about attenuation regarding other Lithuanian farmhouse yeasts. The only thing I can reliably go by is various "landrace/kveik" yeasts and nothing seems to...

I'm not OP, but I've had a Mash and Boil for a little over a year. I can get up to a 7.5% abv beer with about 70-72% brewhouse efficiency with the Mash and Boil. I use a DC powered small solar pump from Amazon ($25). I only picked up a few gravity points by recirculating. That's with a target...

Obviously in a “no sparge” system it’s not an issue. I was addressing OPs concern that grain crush causes tannin extraction.

That's true. But not all RO is zero TDS. My system consistently tests at 8-11TDS. From my perspective it's safer to add a ml of acid to ensure it's 100% safe for sparging. It takes only a minute and costs maybe a penny or two.

Crush does not affect tannin extraction. I have BIAB brewed with grains crushed to almost the fineness of flour and did not have an issue of tannins. Tannin extraction happens when your sparge water is alkaline. IF the pH of your sparge water (at sparge water temps) is over 6pH* You will...

This isn't entirely accurate. You will NOT get arcing, but you could possibly get a hot spot and scorch your wort at this location. This will caramelize the wort and affect the flavor. The elements are tough to bend. Scorched wort is tough to remove, involves some PBW and some scraping (learned...

I've NEVER seen buildup like that on my RIMS setup. I have Bobby's 18" RIMS Tube with his 5500Watt Element w/$2 offset (worth every penny) and run 120v to and EZBoil controller making the power only 1375watts and I have ZERO buildup of any kind. I disassemble the RIMS when I am done mashing and...

Here's one I built for a friend. This one is wired for 110v, but it is nearly the same for 220/240v

You can build a small box using this SSVR as a voltage controller, similar to your "needle valve on the burner". https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=332 You just need to wire it into a small enclosure with a heat sink. It acts basically like the dial on an...

It is a LWD. It will work well. The seller answered a question on the item page: "Question: Is it an ULWD heating element? Can I use for homebrewing or will it scorch the worth? Answer: This is immersion tri clamp foldback heating element, this is LWD HEATER for homebrewing. By DERNORD SELLER...

I'll pretty much buy one as soon as it is available Bobby. I bought the 18" RIMS tube with the welded cam lock fitting you sell last week and just used it yesterday for the first time and I am very impressed with the quality.

It depends on the element. If you use a low watt density (LWD) or, even better an Ultra Low Watt Density (ULWD), it will have no effect as the heat is distributed over a large surface of the element. If you use a cheap shorter element that is rated as High Watt Density then you will have...

I use an EZBoil PID. It is a temp controller that is designed for brewing and reduces the temp swings that are caused by the low duty cycle of industrial PIDs. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=560 The last three pages of the instruction manual...

You do not need to sanitize you brew bag. Just a rinse in clean water and hang it to dry before storing. Your mash water will sanitize and the boiling of the wort will sanitize anything the mash temp didn't kill. Have you tried Starsan as a sanitizer?

"I sent back my Brewie after three brew sessions and a recall notice. Ended up getting an induction burner, 10 gallon SS kettle, and a Robobrew. Brewed on it 3 times so far and it's actually a seamless process compared to the Brewie." Which induction burner did you go with?

I did not know the GF's warranty period. I was going by the poster's question: "element take a crap 6-12 months in and find out you'd need to buy a whole new system". Though I do have a friend who has a GF out of warranty and the element is going bad. That is his plan for keeping the system going.

It would be easy to drill a hole in the side and add a 110v water heater element and use the GF controller to power that.

The DSPR120 has a basic wiring example in the instructions on page #6. Just add a switch for turning off the element between [6] on the EZBoil and [4] on the SSR.

If a solution is found this thread should NOT be deleted so others can read about it.

Nah, you'd probably just tell me I'm doing it wrong and there's my problem. I'll just go back to lurking instead or contributing to this off topic discussion. AGAIN, Sorry OP.