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Thanks to the wonderful collective resources of HBT, and especially Ohio-Ed's control panel thread, I've reached a major milestone in building Rev2 of my eBrewery. The panel guts are O-E based, but instead of using a BCS, I'm using a LabJack U3 USB i/o device. The panel cover is rather sparse...

Oh, my bad -- I was thinking, awe forget it.:cross:

And I thought the manual version was useful -- Man-O-Man, this makes it almost fun to punch holes. Even my daughter thought it was "kewl".

I don't think they chg sales tax out of state -- they also do ebay. I spend way too many lunch hours there. http://stores.ebay.com/Mendelsons-Liquidation-Outlet/Store-Home.html

@brewbeemer ... understand, but we're lucky enough to have Mendelson's in Dayton - i've seen dozens of these pin / sleeves ... and some of the biggest industrial surplus weighs in over 10,000#; 1,000,000 sqft of "junk" Mendelson's - "The first place to look for every last thing"

we have an electronic surplus in town ... maybe i can check if nobody on the board speaks up

@pola0502ds here ya go ...

Saw this SS splatter guard at Target. It's about 13-1/4" diameter, is stepped-concave with a nice finished edge, and has a SS handle.

Hands down, dry yeast is more economical and convenient and provides great storage and packaging. But if you are looking for a specific style, only liquid offers selection. It seems Danstar or Safale would take a significant portion of the brewing market if they could formulate more varieties...

I guess it depends on the voltage and wattage of the particular mats you have. The spec says up to 480V, which is not going to be available in your home. And if they are rated at 480V, running them at 240V will decrease the wattage by 75%. But like fifelee said, easy enough to test! Let us know.

Yes, Sharkbite has fittings for copper, pex, cpvc, and galvanized. This is what you'll be looking for 1/2x1/2x1/2 http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/

No you shouldn't need a torch. Cut about 1-1/2" (you'll have to check) out of the copper line and press the ends into a SharkBite T. Then you are good to go PVC/PEX out the tee. I'm in Warren County (OH), and I'm know we can use copper, CPVC or PEX. And the SharkBites are code too. You can...

If it's code in your area you can cut the copper, install a push-on SharkBite to CPVC (or PEX) transition and do the rest w/o soldering. SharkBite is expensive, but so worth it in terms of convenience.

I see that Kal has been successful in bringing the first of his creation to market. You can now buy his control panel; complete, tested, ready to plug in. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel Congratulations Kal, good luck.:mug: (I'm not affiliated w/Kal; just admire his work...

Congratulations on the closing of your Brew House; nice that it comes with a free upstairs and bedrooms for the SO.:mug:

@TheFlyingBeer - Q on your element design ... i just built mine up over the weekend and had some issues sealing the element-to-box cover transition tight enough to not leak without squishing out the silicon o-rings. Right now I've got one o-ring on the element, then thru the cover plate and...

"Swagelok":rolleyes:

What I expected for actual implementation ... ah I see the confusion, I was looking at the logic diagram which doesn't indicate the double pole as noted on the schematic.

I've been studying the latest schematic and isn't there a concern with the dual fuse setup (@240V) if one fuse blows and the other leg remains hot? In the thirty pages or so, I must have missed the discussion.

UPDATE: I've taken delivery of the 20.8 MT and BK. EVERYTHING was as expected - no disappointed one bit. John was OOS of the HLT, so I'm going to play around w/batch sparging as I rebuild my brewery. Now I need to shorten my table, Doh!