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Calcium really helps with clarity as well as mash efficiency. 50ppm is often stated to be a minimum, but I like at least 80ppm. Depending on whether you are going for a maltier or hoppier beer you can add Calcium Cloride or Gypsum respectively. Vorlauf isn't necessary with BIAB.

If you aren't going to buy in quantity, you aren't going to save anything. Ordering on line you'll either pay a flat rate shipping or need to buy a certain dollar amount to get free shipping.

As I and others have said, you need at least 10 feet of 3/16" ID line. Cooling the tower will also help. Hopefully you're opening the faucet all of the way. Slowing the flow by only partially opening it will only add to the problem. It doesn't really matter what style with the problem you...

It takes a while for the carbonation level to drop considerably in a cold environment under 6 or 8 psi pressure. If the OP is stuck with what he has it's a work around and can't be expected to produce a perfect pour. That pressure won't produce flat beer just under carbonated. \

If you're stuck with what you are using, turn down the serving pressure to 6 or 8 psi. You'll need to bleed off the excessive pressure several times initially, but the foam will gradually subside as you do. Another thing to try is pouring the first 2 or 3 ounces into a small glass before...

I'm doing my first cold ferment with 34/70 just to compare with the ones I have fermented at ale temperatures. The warm fermented ones got a couple of weeks at 37F in the kegerator, but no real cold crash of lagering. All of them were tasty.

Simple and tasty old school IPA: 2-row and plenty of hops. I prefer the "C" hops. Columbus, Chinook, Cascade and Centennial all do well in an IPA. Use as much 2-row as you need to get to about 1.060 with your system. Do 70 or so IBUs with 30% at 60 mins. and the rest split between 15 and 0...

Many LHBSs have reasonable prices on base malts by the sack and hops by the pound. Certainly better than their normal unit prices. Some even offer lower prices with 5 or 10 lb. bags of grains and 6 to 8 oz. bags of hops. You just need to shop a bit and talk to your LHBS about being competitive...

It's not so much the total volume, but the volume in the head space. While the beer will give some relief by way of absorption, the bulk of CO2 will be compressed in the head space.

This is what you typed: "You don't care as long as you get what you want. There are long term consequences to that attitude.:

I see no issue. I don't care what you think. You aren't paying my bills. I do care what I want because I'm paying for it. I have had that attitude for 70 years and have faced no consequences because of it. As long as I am paying my own way it is me who will decide who I give my business to. As I...

You are entitled to spend your money where you want, as am I.

I've said it before and will say it again. I care about quality of product and service. If I get good quality and service from a business I couldn't give a rat's posterior who owns it. As an example, 10 Barrel in Bend, Oregon; I went in for a couple of pints and a meal shortly after they sold...

MoreBeer has free shipping for most orders over $59. Sacks of grain don't qualify, but there price by the pound is reasonable for 10 lb. bags. Their ingredients are about as fresh as can be and prices competitive.

I hang mine on a hook in a storage shed. I hose it off until clean after use and again before next use if there are any cob webs on it. Other than that I just put it in the boiling wort 15 or 20 minutes before flame out.

You should be fine. Might need to keep it cold for another week or so to finish carbonating.

Leaving the foil loosely draped over the flask while on the stir plate will allow sufficient Oxygen ingress and keep nasties from falling into the starter. Absolutely no need to poke holes. ccous is correct to a point, but before the starter begins active fermentation there is nothing to keep...

Why would you poke holes in the foil? Without the holes I'd say decant and make another starter with the slurry. With the holes it's basically open to whatever is floating around in the fridge. I'd toss it if it had been like that for a few hours even.

For many years I chilled the wort and then set up a whirlpool by stirring with the IC before pulling it out of the kettle. I then covered the kettle and allowed the trub to settle out for 15 or 20 minutes. It worked pretty well. Since I began whirlpooling while chilling I just shut the pump off...

This is what I use: https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Whirlpool-Recirculation-Tube-Weldless-NPT.html For the price I couldn't justify the time to make one.