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Honestly I've never done a side by side so I cannot say, but for me, it's sort of like doing a decoction for my hefes - perhaps it's more of a process thing than a proven flavor thing although I'm sure it's debatable. When you think about it, it's likely that any flavor benefit from toasting the...

I just did the toasting this morning and I saw a total loss of 1 oz per pound of flaked oats. I started with 2 Lbs and ended with 1 Lb 14 oz. I'm sure I could do the rest of the math necessary to figure out the percentage of moisture lost but as you say, it's a bit of not much so worry about it...

Does toasting flaked oats have an appreciable effect on how much water gets sucked up by the oats? Seems to me toasting them would reduce their water content thus when added to the mash, they’d suck up more water than untoasted flaked oats. When used as 15% of a grain bill, is there enough of an...

Does the size of the grain bill determine the recommended sparge time? Over the last two batches, Kolsch and IPA, I noticed a difference in the amount of sugars left in the MLT after reaching my BK volume. The Kolsch had final runnings out of the MLT of 1.009 SG and the IPA was 1.016 SG. Each...

Ordered just now - thanks!

From your experience (speaking to all who read this), is there a simple rule that gets one close enough to hitting their strike temp with different size grain bills? An example might look like this: 8 Lbs grain bill - Strike temp = mash temp + 10 F 12 Lbs grain bill - Strike temp = mash temp +...

Interesting. What might be some considerations when quantifying these thermal losses? Crush? Grain type? I know these are minimal in the big picture, but certainly I'd like to understand these variables.

Has there been any research on the relationship of certain hop varieties and the water profile chosen for a standard American IPA? I ask because I’ve been looking for a while and have seen so many ideas for a water profile for IPA, and many comments on certain varieties of hops for IPA regarding...

Let’s run two experiments. Assumptions are; 10-gallon stainless MLT, RO water, grain is a basic US 2-row crushed with a 2-roller mill at 180 rpm and 0.040”. Strike water is in the MLT and is holding at 160°F. Crushed grain is 70°F. Room ambient is 70°F. Grain is added at the same rate for both...

If I may add a couple cents (my own, of course); also look at the available liquid lines and choose carefully. I pulled the trigger a while back on all new lines for my new Kegerator (replacement for my old one that blew up) and went with what was available on Amazon - no idea why I didn't think...

Update - Sprayed each component of the CO2 system, one at a time, with StarSan and it turns out the On/Off valve on one of the outputs of my dual regulator, when in the open position, was leaking BIG TIME! Swapped it out with one I had as part of a two-product CO2 manifold (just happened to have...

The available software for water adjustments is good to have - it gets you pretty close as long as you start with knowing what your water has in it, and use the inputs correctly. Measuring your pH can certainly better inform you at each step but as far as I have seen it is not absolutely...

Using 3/16" ID Accuflex Bev-Seal I'm running 15 feet from the kegs to taps in a kegerator kept at 40 F with 12 psi on a pale ale. I'm also running a tower cooler so the shank and lines stay nice and cold. The tap body itself is closer to room temp so maybe a tiny bit of foam on the first pour...

Is this line/connector combination suitable for force-carbing at, say, 25 psi at 40 F? I just posted about loosing CO2 way too quickly and the lines are normal suspects in such a case. If I decide to change the line type, I'd prefer to go the route I went with my beverage tubing - semi-rigid...

I used to keep the CO2 bottle outside the kegerator but now I keep it inside. I use a dual-regulator so each of the two kegs can have their own pressure; particularly handy when I am force-carbing one at 25 psi while maintaining another at 12 psi. I thought I had drained a 5 Lb bottle a bit too...

I just read that piece and can see where this can get confusing. I have found plenty of information available in homebrewing literature and online over my 7 years of brewing regarding pH measurements, and in my experience most say to measure pH at room temperature. I have found little in the way...

Are published pH ranges for beer styles at mash temp or room temp? I see pH 5.2-5.3 recommended for a Kolsch (Googled, of course...) but at what temperature? I always measure pH at 68 F. I also wait at least 20 minutes into a mash before pulling a sample for measuring.

My salt additions are calculated out as follows: MASH: 1.13g CaSO4, 2.70g CaCl2, & 0.90g MgSO4 SPARGE: 1.25g CaSO4, 3.00g CaCl2, & 1.00g MgSO4 If I added all my salts in the MLT while heating the strike water would that help to drop the pH even if only a little?

Brewing a Kolsch next weekend and Bru'n Water has my estimated mash pH at 5.53. Using RO water with 9 Lbs Pilsner and 10 oz Vienna. 6.25 Gallon batch size. What might be a good way to get this down to the 5.2-5.3 pH range? Or is 5.5 ok as is?

2-keg Kegerator here, and honestly I've never had an issue running the same cleaning method as you are presently - PBW and Starsan has always worked well for me - I clean each time a change a keg, or every other keg depending on how lazy I feel that day.