Search results

that would make sense, but if I plug the heating element directly into the wall it works fine so it has to be something in the box. Any other ideas?

That is how I have it wired. What is strange is before the SSR switches I have 120V at both T1 and L1 and 120V at both legs of the heater plug in. If the heater is plugged in and the SSR switches I through a breaker. Any thoughts?

switching the st to 3 worked. I still have a problem with the 220 line shorting out when plugging in the heater. Before the SSR turns on both outputs measure 120V. Shouldn't just one of the outputs measure 120V until the ssr switches? :mug:

yes I am using it to boil

If someone could post the link to the settings and address my "At" flashing problem in the previous post I would really appreciate it. I am kind of stuck at this point.

when powering up the PID it flashes At repeatly. From reading the manual I see the At stands for auto tune, but don't know why it flashes repeatly on power up. The out green led is also lit. The red light on the SSR is also on which I assume means the relay is on. Also if someone knows what...

Ok well maybe someone else out there has one and will post it. I do have a couple that I think should get me most of the way . If I run into any specific problems I will post. :mug:

POL do you have any good links to wiring schematics on this forum that will answer what I am looking for?

POL is correct on the power source. I have a dedicated 30 amp GFI circuit to power the box. Thanks for the info on the ground bar that is easy. POL: How did you connect the ground wire to the BK? Drill a hole into the BK for a brass ground screw or by other means? Everyone: Any wiring...

I am wiring up a PID controller with SSR to a 5500 W element. I will incorporate a switch to cut power in case of a boil over. Please post your wiring schematics that incorporate these features. The more detailed the better such that it shows the grounds connections and everything.

thanks but that schematic doesn't show me how everything is grounded. I am going to use 5500 element and incorporate a toggle switch to cut power up stream of the SSR to prevent boil over. I am looking for a detailed schematic that shows how these features are wired. If anyone else has a...

I am looking for a schematic of the how you implement it. In other wards a schematic of the entire control box for the eletric brewery.

Please post your pid controller schematics. :mug:

POL might you post a schematic of your control box?

Might someone measure the length of just the element of the 5500 rip and post it. Thanks, :mug:

For those of you that use a 5500w ripp element. What is the max amps this will draw at full load? I have read 23. Also what is the length of just the element part? I have a 10 gal pot with a 14" id. I would like to mount or hang the element horizontally. Is this possible? If not is there another...

do you have any links for wiring plans for a pid controller or step by step instructions on how to build one?

:mug: Do you use 90 or vertical sticks? How are yours orientated? how long would either 4500 or 5500 take to heat the 10 gal of 50 F to a boil? less than 30 min? Do you have any good links for PID controllers that you can post?

I am going to build two heatsticks and am debating if I should use 4500 or 5500 watt sticks. I have two seperate 30 amp GFI protected circuits so either wattage wouldn't be a problem. Questions: 1. Would either wattage be fine in getting 10 gal of 50F tap water to a boil. I am talking about...

after adding the yeast nutrient it still wasn't doing anything today at 50F so I moved it inside the house and it will be at 70F shortly. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the advice.