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You're fine to let it sit until Sunday. You might have 50,000 less viable cells of yeast but you're fine.

My electric build was based off of this drawing of PJ's: I have plans to upgrade it to a 2 PID, 2 element, 2 pump system and there is more than enough room in my enclosure box for the extra equipment. I plan on going to a HERMS but do not have a HLT and have a cooler to mash in. My SSR...

A 5500W element will never work on 15A. To calculate the amps needed, you divide the wattage (5500) by the volts (120) 5500/120 = 45.83 Amps. If you do 240 volts, you will only need 22.92. To answer your question, a 50 amp breaker is not going to be an issue hooked up to a 30A line.

4 cups of sanitizer isnt much diluted into 10 gallons. You're 4/164 cups so you're only about 2%. I think youre fine.

WLP500 should start out cooler, or it can throw some bubble gum flavor. Does it say what the OG will be?

With extract, you wont have any issues with the getting the high OG. The issue you will run into with your inexperience is your yeast. A high OG beer needs a lot of yeast. I cannot tell you this enough. Check out Mr Malty Pitching Rate calculator and look into how to build a starter. These...

Your site has been a HUGE help for me building my own system. Even with it differing extremely from yours, your site has a ton of great and useful information. Coming from no electrical experience to building my own system (which will be running by Christmas) is a huge step for me and it...

I see your problem right there. You need to know your system, otherwise you'll be helpless if any issue, or emergency comes up. The best way to know your system is to build it.

All kegs pull beer from the bottom, so he would have been getting the coldest beer in the keg all the time. It's an issue of yeast settling out is all.

I believe it would work, but arent the posts on a ball lock keg just a little bit different in size?

Use a gallon sized zip lock. And also, don't use honey in this recipe. It's a waste. Just use sugar.

I think boiling before the sour mash is a waste of time and propane. Flush out your mash tun with CO2 and you wont have any issues with acetobacter

Fill a cornie keg with the wine. Problem solved. He's got his 5 gallon bottle and the CO2 will keep it from spoiling.

Placeholder (I cant wait to brew this one)

I dont see the need to stop using growlers, just a need to use an airlock.

Chinook sounds like a nice compliment to Simcoe/Amarillo/Cascade. I dont want it to get muddy but kinda want to have all four in there

A local brewery sold wort to homebrewers and I bought 10 gallons. 5 went the Belgian route and the other 5 is planned to be dry hopped. Here is the breakdown of the wort: 95% English Pale 5% English Crystal 30L 35 IBUs of Bravo at 60 Minutes 1.055 Fermented out with Nottingham at 65* NOW...

You should be able mash roughly 15 lbs of grain with that much space. There is a mash calculator on the Green Bay Racker's site "Can I Mash It?" that I use but I have found that it under estimates a little. http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

I think you are wasting hops by having additions every 5 minutes. Give it a healthy dose at 60 (or 45, it seems like that's how long youre boiling?) to get a larger percentage of your IBUs and then from 20 minutes on, keep the hops the same if you are happy with them.

Traditional Belgian beers have pretty simple grain bills and rely on the candi sugar and yeast to give them a lot of the complex flavors. Any recipe that has a lot of specialty grains is not brewed in the traditional way. Not to say it is not a good recipe, but the CandiSyrup one is more...