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Get yourself a ten gallon pot. You`re going to want to end up with 6 gallons post boil. You will transfer 5.5 gallons to the fermenter, and end up with five gallons of finished product in bottles or kegs. Depending on your boil off rate you will probably need to start with at least 7 gallons...

I used to have around a 25% boil off until I switched to a better burner. Now its right at 12%.

20 points is huge. I don't think 1/2 gallon of water will swing it that much. I know my efficiency goes down somewhat as the lbs of grain increase, but not that much. Sounds like for some reason your efficiency was not what you were expecting it to be. Did you check your pre-boil gravity? what...

Thats good to hear, I know John Palmer and Jamil have columns in there.

It will affect your hop utilization and your BU/GU ratio...it wont be the same beer, but it will still be good.

Its probably fine,but if your going to stress out over it them dump it and pitch 3 vials.

Thats a pretty high boil off rate, try turning your burner down some.

I was wondering the same thing, I went ahead and subscribed to BYO. We`ll see if its any good.

If your gravity is unchanged three days running then you are at FG go ahead and bottle. If it changes you are not. Next time leave it in the primary longer.

The AA listed for the yeast is in a test wort at the lab, your beer is different. Mash temp affects FG but so does the recipe. .5 TO 10 wont cut it for brewing, you want to be right on the money.

Some trub in the fermenter is ok but what you really want to leave out is the hops. Did you use hop bags? I`m not sure what you mean by yield levels.

Like someone else said its already converted, now your just trying to rinse the remaining sugars from the grain bed. I think temperature is more important when batch sparging than flow rate. Warmer temps mean the sugars will flow out easier than cooler temps. I usually mash out at 170 drain the...

I love it when it when a plan comes together.

I think kits are a good way to get started. I started with a Mr Beer kit. The beer tasted like crap, but it did get me interested (some would say obsessed) about learning to make good beer.:)

I also use the Wyeast nutrient in my starters and at the end of the boil. My fermentations start fast and are strong. Don`t know if its the yeast nutrient or not but somethings working. I do know that zinc is real important to yeast and there`s a healthy amount of that in the nutrient.

Sorry I`ve never ran in to that problem with StarSan. You said "generic" whats it called?

The first time I used StarSan the foam kind of freaked me out but its true..."Dont fear the foam"

My only comment is Brown Ale is one of my favorite styles.

I would taste the grains along side some fresh ones and compare. The grain will probably be just fine if kept in a airtight container, cool and away from moisture. I`ve kept base grain around in air tight containers for a couple years without a problem, and I`ve read that dark roasted grains...

Well I guess if it works it works. Have you done this with liquid yeasts also?