Search results

US-05 will sometimes (often?) stay on top like that for a bit, even after reaching FG. Also, you learned that beer tastes better after 3-4 weeks conditioning. Nothing new there. :) Patience is key in brewing. Drinkable beer is available quickly, but it won't be at its best. It's a simple...

You may be posting in the wrong forum. Although I'm sure there are many experts here on this very subject. :D

^...which is another way of saying, measure out your total water, add all the salts and acid, then split the water into two volumes. Multiple ways to do things.

I have a garage and a workshop with brewing stuff in them. The garage has an old fridge that we use only for food, a chest freezer that I use for cold storage and serving of beer (plus hops and yeast), and a foam-insulated wooden box that I use to ferment lagers in the winter, warming them to...

If you have the space, at least consider a used full size fridge or a small chest freezer. They are much more flexible for all the stuff we do. Small fridges always seem to max out somewhere in your brewing journey. You can keep bottled and store bought beer, wine, booze, and even food...

Yes I have. I can tell there's a disconnect here, so we'll agree to disagree and I'll move along.

Looks completely normal. Wow, 4 oz. of hops in a gallon batch. That's 8x what I would use. Quantity should not be a factor.

The higher the temp, the faster the fermentation. The more pressure, the slower the fermentation. Mix the two together and it's essentially equivalent to a standard cool, un-pressurized fermentation. Simple point.

Keg it regardless. A keg is not a bottle, and is not going to break if there are a couple more points of fermentation remaining, which seems unlikely in any case. Rack to keg, hook up the gas at serving pressure, commence cold conditioning. When you return, you'll hopefully have something...

What would be the point of taking a gravity reading after only 3 days of lager yeast fermentation? Fermentation under pressure takes more time, not less. If anything, the warmer temperature and the pressure cancel each other out in terms of time reduction. Also, how would you know that the...

None of the reviews say anything about it not sinking. Seems to be pretty foolproof, assuming you don't over-stuff it. I use a small canister version occasionally and it certainly sinks.

Small batches and bottle priming are a match made in heaven. It's just more reliable to weigh out a few grams of sugar one bottle at a time, and not rely on estimating total volume and adequate mixing.

Yes, they work great with induction.

Yes, I have had a similar experience. My 5.5 has two layers of Reflectix, and I use a Bluetooth BBQ thermometer as well! It is remarkably stable. I run the heat and recirculate in order to reach strike temp, and bring it up to mash out, but don't really need to do anything during the sacch...

Based on my experience with the Avantco IC3500, I would buy their smaller IC1800 which is a 120V unit. I had a BrewBag made for my SS 5.5 gallon kettle. I also bought the NorCal false bottom for it. I have a small pulley setup over my kettle, and it does come in handy for lifting and...

^The AHA URL seems to be inaccessible to some, so here is Scott Janish's page on this beer: Janet's Brown Ale Recipe - Scott Janish

This is an interesting conversation. I am curious about the quoted statement, though. If cold break is only seen as haze in chilled wort, then what are the fluffy clumps that show up only once the wort is chilled in the kettle? And then they float down and settle, albeit not always tightly...

Is the mash tun heated? If not, then recirculating is going to cool the wort. Don't recirculate unless you are also heating. It's not truly necessary to recirc until you vorlauf. This is one of the odd things about the SS system; it seems to use the Infussion mash tun which does not have any...

1.057 to 1.018 is not exactly light and crisp. I would not go higher than 1.050, and 1.045 would be better. You could do 95% pilsner and 5% carahell, carafoam, or carapils. Keep the mash temp low as noted above, and mash for 90 minutes to ensure full conversion in the 140's.

Gypsum is primarily used to add both sulfate and calcium to the brewing liquor. This lowers pH in the mash, and adds a crisp or dry mouthfeel that tends to accentuate hop bitterness. Calcium content does have some positive impact on yeast flocculation, but gypsum is only one way to add...