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Not sure about testing the acid, but you could use the same for the next batch and stabilize the water beforehand. That would allow you to determine if it's the water or the acid.

I would maybe change to 6.6 light LME and 3.3 Amber LME. I would also add more hops and later. Stick with the simcoe to bitter for 60 minutes, but I'd have additions at 10/5/2/flameout to get more hop aroma and taste. Adding hops at 30 minutes is quite an awkward timing because it is halfway...

Here's a mosaic based IPA clone of Elysian Dayglow that I've made with great results: 13.5lb 2 row 1.25lb white wheat .25lb C-15 90 minute boil 90min 3/4oz chinook E-15 1/3oz centennial, 2/3oz mosaic E-2 1/2oz eldorado, 1/2oz mosaic WP 1 1/3oz mosaic DH 1 1/3oz mosaic 1056 yeast

Great to see a fellow Buffalonian brewing! I've never used home grown fresh hops, but I have read that if they are rinsed (with cold water to remove dirt and grime), then the alcohol after fermentation should take care of anything that is left over. Just rinse them off to make sure they're as...

I think the general rule for wet hops is to use 5 times of what you would use in dry hops. So if I were dry hopping with pellets, I'd use an ounce of Williamette. But, with wet, I'd use 5 ounces instead.

I'm pretty close to Southern Tier and was considering visiting sometime this fall or winter. If I go and it still hasn't been settled, I'll try to get some information for you. You could also try and email them too to see if they'll get you started or let you know what kind of pumpkin...

Chinook is a sneaky good bittering hop in my opinion. Simcoe is also solid.

At least half of the fun. Keep us updated on how it goes. Glad they were able to help you get your feet off of the ground.

Shoot the brewery/brewer an email and see if they can get you on the right track.

Endeavour intrigues me. If I can find it, I might try a NZ Motueka/Endeavour pale ale. Maybe a little Sorachi Ace or something. Would be cool to try. Not sure how good, but unique.

I wouldn't bother throwing it in a secondary. I would also put in a little munich as well. Not sure if Pilsen is the best choice for this, but I have no experience with the style, so maybe someone else can help you there. What you have will make beer though.

I'd stop at Ommegang if you're going up towards Syracuse.

I would say you're fine, but there's no way to know for sure. If your batches start getting infected, then it might be your culprit, but I wouldn't worry about it.

un-carbonated beer is still beer! but it could be slightly carbonated by today

How long has it been in the primary? I'm not sure whether or not hop oil would work in the primary. You could maybe dry hop it, but that wouldn't necessarily make the beer less sweet.

In no way is this probably the best combination, but looking at those options, a 30 minute boil using the following schedule peaks my interest: 1 oz. summit @ 30 mins. .5 oz. summit, .5 centennial @ 10 mins. .5 oz. centennial, .5 oz. amarillo @ 5 mins. .5 oz. centennial @ 2 mins. .5...

Really weird double post. Must be something do with my phone

I might use light dry extract. You'll get more out of the steeped grains that way. Too much dark and everything combines together into a syrupy, sweet thing. Id at least go down to half light and half dark, if not more. That yeast should work fine imo.

Harpoon bottles have been the easiest for me

Trying out a Mosaic IPA this weekend: Malts: Steep @ 150 for 20 minutes: 3.2oz. C-15 12.8 oz. White Wheat 6.6lb. Pale LME 2.4lb. Light LME Hops: 60 min. - 1oz. Chinook 20 min. - .5oz. Centennial, 1oz. Mosaic 5 min. - 1oz. Eldorado, 1oz. Mosaic 2 min. - 1.33oz. Mosaic Dry...