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Also, my experience with the Tower of Power is that it comes nowhere near the advertised 0.5 degree temp span. My mash is anywhere from 4 - 8 degrees less than the programmed temperature even after one hour. Smaller mash tuns have larger error. The temperature ramp is also a problem. Never...

Been using one of these for years for recirc back to the mash. Just plug it into the return hose. Use it now on my Top Tier / Tower of Power system. Cheap and efficient. http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/siphon-sprayer.html

My experience is that oxygen rapidly comes out of solution in wort. I measure my wort oxygen levels with a high quality dissolved oxygen meter. I personally don't believe, in homebrew applications, that oxygen toxicity is even possible. My suggestion: single dose oxygen in regular beers...

I have been using the Buon Vino Super Jet Wine Filter ($$) for the past few years on my lightest beers - Belgian Golden Strong and Belgian Tripel. I have also experimented running darker beers up to my Imperial Stout. Here is my thoughts: 1) Pro Brewers use filtering to quickly clear a beer...

My first Chugger pumps had the 3/4" inlet. I plumbed them down to 1/2" to accept my 1/2" hoses. Pump would start cavitation, overheat, and shut off. Switched to 1/2" inlet pumps and all worked fine since.

Start with the tank, regulator and lines first without connecting to the keg. Turn on the main valve letting the system come up to full pressure - I usually open the regulator to 30 psi. Then shut the main valve off. Mark down the main tank pressure and the regulator pressure. Let it sit there...

Setup look fine. Be prepared for changes. I must have reset my Top Tier about twenty times before I hit upon my current configuration. Switched burners around, which is a pain. Changed burner height, not a pain. As you add gear to the setup, the arrangement will evolve in ways you cannot...

Just my FYI: I find that PBW works best for me at 140-160 degrees. Cold it does not seem to work as well, and seems to fizzle out quickly on its cleaning ability. Still use it hot for stainless steel lines and plate chiller in circulation. Oxyclean seems to work fine cold, especially...

The "S" type will also allow air suck into the carboy.... Any type of airlock we use will allow this to happen. The problem is the very sudden cold crash. I let the beer go thru initial 5-7 days fermentation, then gradually reduce temperature 3degrees/day until < 40 degrees. The yeast is not...

I always use Fermcap anti-foam with 3787, in the stir plate starter and in the fermenter. Works perfectly for this yeast. Otherwise a big mess.

Absolutely correct! That is why we are putting in oxygen. I failed to mention I use yeast off a stir plate that has been cooled, the liquid decanted, then only the yeast is pitched. So the yeast is pitched in hibernation stage and not at full Krausen already working. So there must be some...

Oxygen quickly comes out of solution. My last brew day was a beer with OG 1.090+ with 20+ppm O2. Pitched yeast 30 minutes after reading. By three hours later O2 sat was down to 16ppm. For the past few years I have hit my desired oxygen level then pulled my dissolved oxygen meter out. Past...

I use a high grade dissolved oxygen meter for all my brews and have done this the past several years. My personal opinion is that there is way too much bad advice given on this subject. From "Handbook of Brewing", Priest & Stewart, the recommendation for oxygen in a commercial brewing is...

I used the 3/4 inch center inlet chugger pumps on my Tower of Power / Top Tier set up. I decided to use my stainless steel QC's from Beer3. Used 3/4 inch S/S connector and 1/2 -> 3/4 inch S/S inlet reducer. Looked perfect. However, the reducer produced significant cavitation in the pump and...

I use bicarb precipitation all the time for my brews. Works perfectly, just treat the water the day before you brew. You should fine tune the amount of pickling lime for the type of beer. Lighter beers take more and darker beers need less pickling lime to hit desired pH.