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I use a plastic tub. A regular tupperware type rectangular bin. It will hold more ice and water than a sink unless you have a really big sink. When a majority of the ice is melted I siphon some out and add more ice. Works well for me.

It would be nearly impossible to go from brew day to opening a bottle carbed beer in 3 weeks.

I do full boils and late extract addition, i add the extract at flame out actually. Late extract addition even in a full boil will result in a beer with a lighter color more accurate to the style. If you are doing partial mash the initial grains will add enough gravity for the hops.

Some things I do for a beer like this is use 1/2 to 3/4 RO water. The RO water imparts no taste and I just add tap water for the rest. I am also trying WLP090 yeast. This is supposed to be very similar to Safale 05 but possibly attenuate a little more and be faster.

I thought I was making bad beer for a while because they all just tasted bitter. What is interesting is that the bitterness seems to fade as the beer warms. I guess its the other flavors becoming apparent and balancing

I keep my kegged homebrew around 38 degrees. If it is something that is supposed to be served warmer I just let it warm up in the glass. I have noticed that at cold temperatures the only taste that really comes through is the hop bitterness. As a brew warms this bitterness really fades and the...

White labs San Diego super yeast might be a good choice.

There should be a big difference in aging at 35 vs 70. At 35 you would have substantially slowed any processes that are helping in age the beer. I dont think the carbonation is going to make that much difference. You do need to hit it with 30 psi or so to seat the lid and then purge the oxygen...

I would suggest plastic carboys. I started with glass and have switched to plastic after reading some of the horror stories on hear about them breaking. The only downside to plastic is they can get scratched and be ruined but unless you are trying to clean with them with steel wool that would be...

Yeah it clears up at room temp. I could let it chill and clear but I need this to finish in a couple weeks so I am going to try adding KC finings. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

It tastes great. I fermented it around 64 and it came out very clean. It has a very subtle aroma and taste of peach. I plan on entering it in a competition so I would like it as clear as possible. I will give it some more time though.

Bleach would be a good start. Might also try oxi clean and letting them sit in the sun for a while after draining them. I would definitely run a brush through the dip tube.

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I brewed a partial mash Peach Ale from Austin Homebrew. I used Whirfloc in the boil. When I was transferring the beer appeared very clear in the fermenter. I was able to see through several inches of beer down to the trub. After transferring to a keg I poured in the 2 ounces of peach...

I have noticed on mine the pressure has to equalize in the lines and kegs. If it continually drops to zero there is a problem but you may have to make adjustments initially.

Read from the bottom of the meniscus

Pure oxygen for 60 seconds will give you proper oxygenation. This is at a flow rate of 1 liter per minute.

I would take it out. Any off flavors are going to age out faster at room temp.

I looked around some more and it looks like austin homebrew low carb ale is exactly what I am looking. Does anyone know what difference in the final beer is using amylase vs alpha-galactosidase enzyme is? This recipe comes with WLP007. How does this yeast compare in taste to WLP029 in the final...

I am planning on making the Texas blonde from Austin homebrew. I want to get as little taste as possible, basically mimic a lager. Would adding Amylase Enzyme to this recipe make it even more mild. I am assuming the Amylase Enzyme will make more fermentables which should leave less malt...